Ridin' My Couch (August 11, 2015)

Be it ever so humble, there's no place like ... well, you get the picture.

I returned to Tucson late this past Friday night after two days of travel that were filled with lengthy delays.  In-as-much-as "it's all about me" (Marcie, I will send you a royalty check for using your line), I found it quite inconsiderate of these national transportation companies (Amtrak and U.S. Air) to cause me to sit idle for hours on end.  Even though my Google calendar reminds me daily that I do not have any items scheduled, I felt quite slighted by their (Amtrak and U.S. Air) inability to control things completely outside of their control (pedestrian suicide and weather).

Let's see, where was I?  Oh yes ... got home late Friday evening, slept the sleep of babies and awoke to a weekend of getting my "Tucson" life in order.

I have been repeatedly asked how I feel about the ride I just finished.  Given my unhappy feelings offered up in my most recent postings, it is clear to me that I had reached a point where bike touring (or rather the thought of bike touring) was not high on my list of "things I enjoy".  In the final month of riding I was faced with strong head winds on an almost daily basis, which was extremely discouraging.  But I find as the days go by, and those immediate emotions ebb, I am able to begin to gather my thoughts on the overall outing.  More and more I am remembering events and locations that brought me joy.

Quick summary:  Days on the road ... 137;  total miles ... 6,542;  number of flat tires ... 5 or 6 (note:  the last flat was on final day of riding ... sheesh);  total cost ... OUCH!!

So here I am ... grateful and most happy to be home;  grateful and most happy to be in good health; grateful and most happy to be surrounded by such wonderful friends;  grateful and most happy.

The floppy-eared guy (in the mural below) is quite representative of me, this past weekend, as I was "getting my "Tucson" life in order" whilst ridin' my couch.

 

A Matter of Perspective (July 31, 2015)

Sunrise ... or sunset?

After what can only be described as a very difficult and depressing several weeks of riding into strong headwinds every day, I am very comfortably taking a few days of R'n'R south of Bend, OR.  My good and long-time friend Bill Burk has a wonderfully calm home nestled in the pine country ... quiet, serene and spiritually uplifting ... the world has once again become good.

Since the last posting, I have passed through Lewiston, ID/Clarkston, WA, Walla Walla, WA, and fought the wind along the Columbia River before heading south to the Bend area.  Riding into the wind along the river was extremely difficult ... three days of five-hour rides at around 25 miles per day.  But that is all behind me now.  In a few days I will be heading over to Eugene, then up to Portland (via Amtrak ... yes!!!).  A week from this evening I will once again be placing my feet on Tucson soil (YES, YES, YES!!!).

I am having a difficult time of figuring out this summer's ride.  While I have seen and experienced many locations and things that I have not experienced before, there seems to be an emptiness in it all.  Yes, many a mile was covered, and yes, many a day has gone by since leaving Globe, AZ on March 24 ... but I just can not figure out what I accomplished by doing this ... total mileage covered does not bring to me a sense of purposeful accomplishment (more a sense of "pointless pedaling", as a friend once labeled my adventures).  I met some interesting folks out on the road and continue to communicate with a few of them, which is rewarding.  I saw parts of the country I had not seen before (and frankly, don't plan to see again).  And I am terribly homesick for Tucson.  So at this point I just don't know ...

At this point I am having a difficult time thinking about the possibility of doing, or not doing, future rides.  At this point I am having difficulty in thinking about how to fill my days upon returning to Tucson.  At this point I just don't know ...

Perspective pretty much controls one's mental outlook and decisions ... is life good or bad?  ... does the future hold promise of interesting and challenging experiences? ... and most importantly, what's it all about, Alfie??

Perspective ..... sunrise or sunset?  The adjacent photo was taken at Lake Yellowstone, and is a sunrise.  Maybe that is an omen of where my life goes from here.


_____________

On a side note, today my nephew, Sky, is getting married in Santa Barbara.  Min and Sky, I wish you much happiness, good health ... and a very joyful life together.

On another side note, my granddaughter just celebrated (or rather her parents celebrated) her first birthday ... as is true of all good grandparents, I have a Power Point presentation (of Noe) I can email to you upon request!

Headin' home (July 21, 2015)

I had been planning on riding up to Seattle, then back down to Oregon prior to flying home in mid September.  No more ... now I am heading to Oregon directly and eliminating about a month of riding. Having been on the road for about 120 days, and having faced continual headwinds, I made the decision to cut this ride short. 

I am currently in Idaho, and will be reaching Clarkson, WA tomorrow.  Then on to Walla Walla, the Columbia River, Bend, Eugene and finally Portland. 

The adjacent photo is one of the many views one gets when riding along the Lochsa River.  Water level is lower than usual, and the air is "unseasonably" hot, but at least the wind let up yesterday.  The nice thing about riding along the river is that it is a gentle downhill ride ... ahhhh.

Flying home August 7.  Feels good to be heading home, even if it means several more weeks of riding.

Progress (July 16, 2015)

It has been about a week since last posting, so thought I would give a quick update regarding my travels ... lots of miles, lots of rain, lots of wind!!

This morning I am in Butte, Montana, and should reach Missoula in a couple of days.

The adjacent photo is of the Grand Tetons, which are spectacular.  From the Tetons, the route takes one into Yellowstone National Park.  Lots and lots of people and lots of miles of dangerous sections of road.

Currently heading west into the unrelenting easterly winds.  Not very exciting days, just long, hard rides.  I am getting pretty tired.

Without a lot of enthusiasm ... time to head out the door.

High Point (July 9, 2015)

As other cycling tourist  will tell you, seeing the sign in the adjacent photo is definitely a high point in a day's ride.  For me it was THE high point of the past week of riding.

After my visit with Ilene and Larry in Castle Rock, I rode north along the eastern face of the Rockies, passing through Denver and on up to Ft. Collins.  These were easy days.

From Ft. Collins I headed to Laramie, Wyoming ... a 77 mile day.  The high point of the day (actually the low point) started with about 27 miles remaining.  There had been a few light rains interspersed with warm/drying periods, so I had not been putting on my rain jacket and pants.  It began to sprinkle again ... but instead of enjoying a following warm spell, it began to pour.  Thinking it would let-up, I rode on.   Bad decision!  As it continued to pour heavily, I finally stopped to put on my jacket; however, the pants were at the bottom of one of the front panniers.  I did not want to get the contents of that pannier soaked, so I rode on in my (thoroughly soaked) shorts.

The wind picked up and it continued to pour.  Cars were stopping along the road or driving at about 20 mph with their flashers flashing due to the extreme down pour ... I had no where to find shelter, so I continued on to Laramie.  Three hours of this left me shivering and somewhat dazed, but I found a hotel and survived to ride another day.

The following "another day" was a 100 miler to Rawlins, followed by  two 65 mile days to Landers, WY.  Each of these days included periods of heavy rain (for which I was prepared with my rain gear readily accessible).  Wyoming is vast ... but other than earth and things that grow (other than trees), there just isn't anything here ... just mountains and grasslands.

Upon waking this morning in Landers, I intended to load it all up again for a 75 mile day to Dubois (pronounced "Da Boys") ... but just could not get it going, so I am taking an unplanned rest day.

From here, I will be heading to Yellowstone, then to Seattle by way of Missoula.  I am planning to reach Seattle somewhere around August 2nd.  I will be meeting up with Sarah, whom I met last year on the Sierra Cascades ride.  We will probably do a short multi-day ride somewhere in the Seattle/Victoria Island/Vancouver, B.C. area.  I also hope to see Linda and Ned Scarey (ex-sister- and brother-in-law) while in Seattle.

After leaving the Seattle area around August 12th, I plan on riding west and south around the Olympic Peninsula, make a couple of stops in Eugene and Bend, then fly home from Portland around the 1st of September.

But for today, I will be resting ... and for today, that is certainly the high point.

Finally ... (July 1, 2015)

...  out of Kansas ... out of the wind ... out of the depression that can some times overtake a long distance bike ride.

Ah, but life is good.  I am currently taking a few day's R&R at Ilene and (cousin) Larry McLain's house in Castle Rock, CO (just south of Denver), and life could not be more enjoyable at this moment.  Huge afternoon rain storm ... and rather than sitting on the wee bike saddle peddling through the wetness, I have been sitting on their spacious (covered) porch watching the downpour.

As to Kansas and wind, I had reached my limit.  The only thing I was looking forward to was getting out of both.  After leaving Greensburg, KS, I spent a headwind-filled day reaching Dodge City.  I think my best memory of Dodge City was the leaving of Dodge City ... hot, dusty, crummy, etc., etc., etc.  Passed a few of the massive beef processing plants (called slaughter houses in earlier times) that provide much of the beef products available at your local supermarket, and was amused at the general layout of the facility.  At the east end of the site was a seemingly endless line of cattle-hauling tractor/trailers, and at the west end a similar line of refrigerated tractor/trailers.  I do not think any of us want to know what goes on between these two lines of trucks.

After another day of riding into the headwinds out of the southwest, and seeing no end to this wind pattern, I decided to head north.  I knew it would be a long day between Garden City and Oakley (85 miles) and knew from the weather predictions that the wind would be coming out of the northwest late in the day, but I thought I could cover most of the mileage before getting into the headwinds.  Oh how wrong I was.  At about mile 20 the winds hit me leaving 65 miles of once again riding into a headwind.  I really don't know what I have done to piss off Aeolus, but I must have done something quite sinful.

After that painfully long day getting into Oakley, I took it easy, once again heading west.  Headwind conditions continued but with a lesser velocity ... but three mid-30 mile days brought me some relief.  One of the days ended in the small town of Goodland, KS, home of "The Big Easel" pictured above.  It is always interesting to see what small towns do to distinguish their town from other small towns .... Greensburg, KS = "Home of the World's Largest Hand-dug Well".

Anyway, two additional long days of riding have resulted in reaching Ilene and Larry's home ... and more importantly leaving Kansas.  As a side note about leaving Kansas, I have been reading the journals of two TransAm riders who are out ahead of me.  The first thought Kansas was a glorious, interesting and beautiful experience ... the second shares  my feelings ... want to guess which one had tailwinds and which one had headwinds??

Not jumping on the bike this morning felt wonderful.  I plan on taking another day of rest, then head north to Cheyenne.  From there I will probably head toward Grand Tetons and Yellowstone National Parks.  After that I am not quite sure where I will go, but will be rambling around the northwest until around September 1, at which time I will be flying back to Tucson.

... finally.

Steve Correll (July 1, 2015)

A week ago, a friend passed away in his sleep.

Steve Correll was one of those quiet people that we noisey people tend to over look.  Fortunately for me, I got to know Steve via numerous GABA (Greater Arizona Bicycle Assn.) volunteering efforts at SAG stops, post-ride lunches and various registration tables.  Also, we shared many a ride with the weekly Tuesday morning group ride up Mt. Lemmon (although due to the fact that he was an exceptionally strong climber, we did not share many lengthy conversations going up the mountain).

I recall one ride up the mountain when I was feeling quite full of myself as I was hanging with Steve for quite a while ... then I noticed he was pushing his big ring and one of the smaller cog gears (needless to say, I was on my small ring and big cog gear) ... and I was breathing hard and he was effortlessly chatting away.

Two of Steve's qualities that I greatly admire are that he never spoke bad of others, and seemed to be always willing to assist others.  He loved to laugh, loved to ride and loved climbing Mt. Lemmon ... and his love of Melinda was clear to all.

His passing caused me to spend many a mile, over the past week, in contemplation of what awaits us all.  I do not fear death, I just find it interesting that we do not have much control as to how and when we exit this life.  I know there are several trite sayings indicating how we should conduct our lives, but I do believe it is true ... we should think about the quality of our remaining days, not the quantity of our remaining days.

I am happy that I shut down my own noise long enough to get to know Steve ... but I am greatly saddened by the fact that he is gone. 

But it's a Dry Wind (June 22, 2015)

 

The rain, or rather the threat of rain, finally went away several days ago, which allowed for joyful days of riding from Chanute to Eureka, then the following day on into Newton (all in Kansas).  Those days were particularly enjoyable as I had met up with three west-bound riders ... but alas, due to a miscommunication on my part I am again traveling solo.

Upon leaving Newton, a new weather pattern set in ... high-velocity wind ... east-bound wind ... 15-to-20 mph headwind wind.  Oh my!  This weather pattern has remained for three days now.  To this "in your face" weather element, throw in temperatures in the high 80s to mid 90s, then mix in a heaping dose of humidity ... I am kinda thinking Tucson's 105 may not be so bad.

Yesterday's ride was kind of hard.  Prior to leaving Hutchenson, I looked at the road map and saw that there were several towns spaced approximately 7 to 10 miles apart on the way to Pratt.  Even though I knew it would be very windy, I figured there would be many opportunities to refill the water bottles and get some food along the way ... not so!  The towns shown on the map are little more than a grain tower with a few homes and some boarded up former (1910ish) commercial structures.

53 miles into a strong headwind to get to Pratt ... sipping at my limited water ... falling into a bit of a dazed mental zone.  About three miles outside of Pratt I had quite a scare.  The pavement to the right of the white line was about 4' wide, and in my dazed mental state I was pretty much in the center of that area.  As I trudged along, I was visually focusing on a spot about 5' out in front of me, and since I was wearing my visor I had no awareness of what was going on farther up the road.  All of a sudden, there was an eighteen wheeler about 3' to my left ... going the opposite direction at about 70 mph!  He was in the process of passing another truck.  After cursing the driver and his mother, I stopped, changed into a clean pair of riding shorts, and continued on into Pratt. 

Thinking the worst had passed (pun intended), I headed to a convenience store with the intent of purchasing the product that had been my primary motivation during the last 15 miles ... a few cold beers.  Alas, Pratt County does not allow sales of alcohol on Sundays ... I'm thinking Tucson's 105 may not be so bad.  Also I was wondering in what century this county is living.

This brings me to today's ride.  Left Pratt at 6:30 this morning with the intent of getting as many miles in as I could prior to the wind picking up.  Ha!, it had already picked up!  Five hours later I reached the town of Greensburg, which is 32 miles from Pratt.  My intent was to try and reach Dodge City (77 miles from Pratt), and after stopping for drinks and some food in Greensburg, I decided to head on to Dodge City.  About 3 miles beyond Greensburg I called B.S. on that idea, made a u-turn ... and enjoyed a wonderful tailwind back into town.  Will head to Dodge City tomorrow.

As Roseanne Roseannadanna used to say on Saturday Night Live, "It's always something!"  And so it seems on this particular ride.  But because I enjoy the experience of touring, even though it wears me down from time-to-time, I continue on.

All in all, it wasn't the dry wind that got me down yesterday ... it was the "dry" county!!

'Tis Wet Out Here (June 17, 2015)

Lots of rain the past three or four days ... lots.

As summarized in the previous post, I had gone "off route" in search of less climbing.  Mostly I succeeded ... not so much four days ago riding from Rolla to Lebanon (Missouri).  I mistakenly put my trust in Google Map which turned out to be a huge mistake.  After typing in the start/finish points, I selected the route that indicated I would be following the Old Highway 66 route.  I guess what they really meant was the "REALLY,  REALLY OLD Highway 66 ... route included about five miles of extremely remote and steep single lane paved road and about ten miles of even more remote unpaved  steep single lane road.  Most unenjoyable and very discouraging.  Add in getting soaked by rain twice (second time the last ten miles into Lebanon), and it made for a most difficult day.  After a so-so Mexican food dinner, I returned to my motel room around 8:30 and sat down to do some crossword puzzles ... awoke in the chair around 1:30 A.M.  Long and tiring day.

During my (dry) approach to Lebanon, I talked with a State Trooper to see if bicycles are allowed on Missouri Interstates (in Tennessee they are not).  Indeed bikes are allowed, although he clarified that I should stay in the safety lane.  I told him with just a touch of sarcasm that I had thought about riding in the fast lane ... fortunately he had a sense of humor.

The advantage of riding the Interstate is that there is almost a total lack of steepness, and the pavement surfaces are mostly quite good.  Plus the safety lane is approximately 12' wide, so you can ride far removed from the traffic.  I think riding the Interstates is actually safer than riding roads that have no shoulder/safety lanes.

So I rode I-44 from Lebanon to Springfield, then Springfield to Carthage (again, all in Missouri), and got soaked two times each day.   It is fairly warm, so it is not too uncomfortable.  I am in Pittsburg, KS this morning, looking out at a downpour ... looks like another wet day.  Back on the TransAm route and looking at about two weeks of riding flat Kansas rural roads prior to reaching Colorado.

Quick summary ... today is the start of week thirteen, and I have logged just over 4,000 miles since leaving Globe, AZ.  On a side note, I realized yesterday upon entering Kansas that over the past seven summers of touring, I have been in 41 of the 50 U.S. states (have not been in Connecticut, Rhode Island, South Carolina, North Carolina, Arkansas, Oklahoma, Alaska, Hawaii and Colorado).  It was not, and is not a goal of mine to ride in all 50 ... just an observation.

Time to head out into the rain ... oh, joy!

Adaptability ... (June 13, 2015)

... or avoidance??

Once again I have gone "off-route" in order to avoid what I perceive to be unnecessary brutal climbing.  The TransAm route in Missouri takes one through the Ozarks in what looks to be nothing but back-road climbs ... climbs that often get into the 8% to 10% grade.  I have been searching out highways that run roughly parallel to the TransAm.   The grades on these highways, while longer, rarely exceed 6%.

I have been following the journal of a guy I met back on my first day in Virgina.  Joel Kampf is an excellent writer, and if you read his posts regarding the Ozarks I think you will see why I am searching out alternative routes.

Yesterday, riding into Rolla, Missouri in a downpour (and with a missing rear brake pad ... damned rumble strips!!), I came upon the Historic U.S. 66 route.  Adventure Cycling has recently been promoting this route as a new path for touring cyclist.  I plan on following this route to Joplin, Missouri, then rejoin the TransAm in the flatness of Kansas.  Sounds like a plan to me ... unless it gets to be too much in the climbing category.

So, time to load up the bike and continue westward.  Rain storms predicted for the next several afternoons, which sounds bad.  Actually, getting soaked feels good after being out in the high heat and humidity.

On a completely different note, I was wondering the other day how the word "noon" became synonymous with 12:00 A.M.  Things I think about while pedaling down the road. I suppose I could Google it and find out,  but that would take the mystery out of it.

Life ain't so great these days, but it does continue ...

Inner Peace (June 6, 2015)

When out touring on a pannier-loaded bike, there is a sometimes discomforting feeling when one feels the affect of a quickly deflating tire ... "Damn, another flat!!"

While I have experienced that emotion four times over the past week, I (more importantly) have experienced a different emotion due to another type of "flat".

Having chosen to leave the ACA TransAm route and ride across Tennessee, I have greatly enjoyed the relative flatness of the terrain.  Has there been a total lack of climbing?  No, but the climbing has not been the leg-killing type that is offered up in western Virginia/eastern Kentucky.  As a matter-of-fact, the past two days have been as depicted in the adjacent photo.

The riding between Knoxville and Nashville, while containing numerous long climbs, was most affected by weather.  The storms that flooded Texas and Oklahoma passed overhead, but dropped plenty of water along the way.  Four separate times I was drenched ... but much like the dry heat of the Arizona desert, the warm Tennessee air allowed the drenching to be bearable (please note, I am not saying "enjoyable").

I am currently in southern Kentucky, heading northwest from Nashville, and will be rejoining the TransAm route today in Marion, KY.

Was the decision to abandon the TransAm route and drop down into Tennessee the right decision?  As I do not plan to ever ride the "abandoned" section, that is a question I can not answer.  Was it a good decision?  Yes.

Since leaving Arizona ten-and-a-half weeks ago, I have logged just under 3500 miles ... and should I finish up the ride in Astoria, OR in mid-to-late August I will be putting in another 3200 miles.  When I was faced with the "route dilemma" ten days ago, I was physically tired and mentally the joy of touring had disappeared.  This morning I am feeling joyfully rested.

The flat tire situation has not reared its' ugly head over the past few days, as I replaced the tire I bought back in Ashland, VA with the spare booted-tire I carry for such situations ... and I have ordered a new set of Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires from a bike shop  in Farmington, MO (which I plan on reaching mid-week next week).  Ah ... inner (tube) peace.

Heading back to the route today I am feeling good, both physically and mentally.  Dare I say it, life is good ... inner peace allows it to be so. 

Inner Turmoil (May 30, 2015)

Four days ago, I found myself sitting in a library with several maps and road atlases spread out on a table.  What to do ... which route to follow?  The previous eight or nine days had been filled (nay, overloaded) with short steep climbing.  While staying reasonably on track with the Adventure Cycling TransAm route, I had started to ride busier roads rather than head off onto the roads suggested on the maps ... roads with names such as "Stagecoach Road" or "Old (insert name of small town) Road".   Even the busier roads had endless climbing, but the steepness of the climbs was less and lengths longer ... even so, this was taking a toll on my legs and on my morale as well.

So there I was, surrounded by maps, trying to determine how I would be traveling over the coming three weeks.  Was I to stay on the ACA route or was I to head down to Tennessee and follow "god knows what" routes.  Looking at the ACA route, I did not see any of the "near-by busier roads" that would alleviate some of the climbing.   Looking at the Tennessee highway maps ... well, there was too much inner turmoil to select a route, and I was really not too sure if Tennessee would be any different than western Virginia and Kentucky (TransAm route) ... stomach-roiling indecision at its' finest.

I had to make a decision that would be implemented immediately upon walking out of the library.

Here is what really freaked me out (click on the picture below for an enlarged view):

These three "profile" panels represent the coming 1,000 miles (three weeks) I would be riding were I to stay on the TransAm route.  I am fully aware that the horizontal is greatly fore-shortened, which results in much steeper verticals, but that does not reduce the number of climbs. 

At this point, a thinking person may ask, "Is this the first time you looked at the maps/profiles?"  Unfortunately, my answer would be, "Yep'"

In John Steinbeck's Travels with Charlie, he takes people who "over-plan a trip and adhere unwaveringly to that plan" to task.  I wonder what he would have had to say about people such as I, who seemingly are oblivious to the concept of "planning".  Truthfully, my plan for this bike ride was simply to ride to Florida on the Southern Tier route, up the coast, then west on TransAm.  That was/is the depth of the plan I developed ... did I bother to look at the maps prior to leaving Tucson?  Nope.  Sitting in that library was the first time I looked at the maps with the profiles.

I just read a journal entry of a guy I met earlier this month.  He is riding the TransAm, and just entered Kentucky the other day ... does not sound like he is having a good time.  (Note to Linda Matson and Mark Doumas (Linda and Mark rode that route recently):  feel free to share your thoughts on the TransAm route in eastern Kentucky and western Virginia).

I am currently in Knoxville, Tennessee.  The riding has been, for me, much easier.  The roads I have selected are much busier, but the legs are much happier ... and for this moment, there is less inner turmoil tugging at my soul. 

My, Oh My ... (May 26, 2015)

My, oh my, oh my ... this part of the country sure is wrinkled!  In all of my various bike rides over the past seven summers I have never experienced the amount of short, painful, repetitive climbing that is required to move forward, as I have experienced in the last week or so ... and it looks to continue for the coming weeks.

My, oh my.  The routes suggested on the Adventure Cycling maps take cyclist off into some very extreme back roads loaded with short ups-and-downs.  Having had my fill of such climbs, I have opted to ride the main highways (not Interstates) so as to  minimize the number and the steepness of climbs required.  Even so, the climbing is relentless, tiring ... and quite often demoralizing.

There are bright spots, tho.  The other night I was most fortunate to spend the evening with Wendy and Steve Richards at their farm outside of Lexington, VA.  Tucson friends Claire and Bob Rogers are also visiting.  Wendy and Steve (couple on the left in the above picture) have been living on the farm for thirty years and have built a beautiful calming oasis.  It was so good to spend time talking, laughing and relaxing with friends.

Time to start loading up the bike and heading out on the road for another day of climbing.  Even though the days are difficult, the scenery is beyond beautiful ... my, oh my.

Contrasting Days (May 22, 2015)

After reaching Charlottesville on Tuesday after a long and tedious day, on Wednesday I decided to do the short ride out to Monticello and just take it easy.

What a beautiful day it turned out to be ... both from the stand point of weather and personal enjoyment.  After reaching Monticello, I took the tour of Thomas Jefferson's residence, then spent a couple of hours just roaming around and soaking in the history and the beauty of the estate.  Wonderful break from the daily biking experience.

After leaving Monticello, I did another short ride into Charlottesville and got a motel room, with the intention of heading on to Afton on Thursday.  The fabled "Cookie Lady" was based in Afton;  She offered lodging and cookies to over 15,000 touring cyclist prior to her death in 2010 ... kind of a landmark for those riding the TransAm.  This area is extremely hilly, and makes for (me) very tiring days, so the reasonably short distance of 35 miles was not looked upon (by me) as an easy day.

Upon waking Thursday (yesterday), rain was falling and the high temperature for the day was projected to be in the mid 50s.  Not being overly motivated, and having no schedule deadlines to meet, I opted to take the day off.  Felt a relief not heading out into the wet and cold.

This morning the weather again is beautiful ... but the hills remain.  Next few days promise to be hard on the legs.  Motivation was added yesterday when I received a message from Claire Rogers ... she and Bob are visiting friends in Lexington, VA, which I will be reaching in the next few days. 

Good weather and the promise of seeing good friends.  That is a real contrast to the grayness of yesterday.

It's Hard out Here: #2 (May 18, 2015)

Then maybe it is not so hard.

Had a very nice ride from the Willis Methodist Church to Ashland, VA ... 38 miles of back roads filled with history, reasonably nice weather and relatively courteous traffic (I'm looking  at you red Volvo!!!). 

Found a bike shop in Ashland, VA that had what I needed to keep riding (tire and brake pads), so am feeling good.

Because there are predictions of extreme thunderstorms tonight, I opted to motel it tonight.  Ergo, the nice room in the adjacent photo ... no need to expand the photo to feel the humanity.  The Civil War was horrific ... my life is good.

In a couple of days I will be in the Charlottesville area, home to my favorite structure ... Thomas Jefferson's Monticello residence.  It is a model of design perfection, all the while with a few overt imperfections that make the structure perfect.  During my working career, I kept three pictures near my desk ... two out-dated photos of my sons, and a picture of Monticello.  I am not sure if there is a more perfect/flawed structure to be found than Monticello.  And as for my sons ... perfect, with a few imperfections.

Sometimes I just have to smile ... life is so good.

Beyond Horrific (May 18, 2015)

Not sure if you will be able to to see what the adjacent photo shows ... click (a couple times) on the photo to enlarge and witness the humanity of the individuals.

The photo is of injured Union soldiers left behind by a retreating Union Army ("Thanks guys, see you later.") because the Union Army did not have the capability to transport their wounded after the fighting during the Seven Days Battles (not to be confused with the 1967 Israeli/Palestine war).

Horrific, plain and simple.  Very disturbing.  As I recall, the term "saw bones" (referring to doctors), came out of the Civil War.

Beyond horrific.

It's Hard Out Here (May 18, 2015)

It's a hard life out here on  the road ... heat, humidity, bugs, traffic, primitive campsites ... it is hard.

Then things change.  I spent this past evening in the Willis Methodist Church facilities in Glendale, VA.  Pastor Mark and Juanita Osby are so welcoming to cycling tourist; takes the stress of all of the negatives of touring out of one's mind.

Upon arriving at the church, I called Juanita and she met me to open the doors.  She gave me a quick tour of the facilities ... area to spread out sleeping bag, restroom, shower (with towels, I might add), wifi, and most amazingly ... a full kitchen.  She opened the refrigerator and said, "Help yourself to anything in the refrigerator and pantry".  My eyes locked onto the stack of pies!!!

After settling in, I cooked up a batch of spaghetti, all the while savoring the use of the full kitchen ... the meal was excellent.  But the slice of apple pie ... oh, my.

Looking at the sign-in books that cyclist use to express their thanks, Willis Methodist has been welcoming we travelers since June of 2005.  Since the  Trans America (TransAm) route has been active since 1976, I would suggest that they have been hosting for much longer.

The history of the areas around Williamsburg and Richmond is over whelming.  Just about a half mile from this church is the site Malvern Hill, one of many sites of the Seven Days Battle between the Union and Confederate armies.  The combined losses were (approximately) 1,000 killed, 3,500 injured and 2,000 missing or captured.  The conditions must have been horrific ... I wonder how the generals were able to motivate the soldiers to march great distances and then fight.  As I say, horrific ... and this was just one of many, many battles fought in and around Richmond.

Compared to what the soldiers experienced, I guess it really isn't too hard out here.

I Prefer the Bike (May 16, 2015)

Alternative  modes of travel offer positives and negatives.  Being on this bike ride, I naturally do not have the option of getting in a car and driving (other than renting, but the cost to rent and drive hundreds of miles is too great).  I wanted to get from Savannah, GA to Richmond, VA faster than my bike could do, so I opted for Amtrak.

Everything about the process of ticketing and shipping the bike went well ... the negative part is the actual travel on the train.  The train left the station at 8:30 PM and arrived in Richmond at 4:30 AM, which meant there was eight hours of attempting to sleep in the "coach class".  I will say that the seats are wider and roomier than airline coach seating ... but my-oh-my, are they uncomfortable when one tries to get some sleep.   While indeed the seats are roomier, I should mention that my seat-mate, whom I am sure is called "Tiny" by his friends, had a definite impact on my space.

So, after a most uncomfortable night, I de-trained at 4:30 AM, repacked everything, and waited for sun-up.  When I asked the Amtrak folks if they had a map of Richmond, their looks were one of amazement ... "Maps, why would we have maps ... the trains just follow the tracks."  Not having a map, I then relied on Google Maps (bicycle beta version).  I think Google gets paid for the amount of turns and obscure routes laid out.  I spent a great amount of time and energy trying to get to Highway 5 (New Market Road), which would lead me to Williamsburg.

After a lot of stopping and turning, searching and yearning for a way out, I happened on to the group in the adjacent photo.  Yesterday morning was Richmond's "Bike to Work Day" celebration.  Looked a lot like Tucson's Living Streets Alliance .... as a matter of fact, the event is put on by the local bike/pedestrian advocacy group named Bikeable Richmond.  I had a wonderful chat and some very tasty coffee with these folks.  All of the built-up stress from trying to sleep on the train and finding my way per Google melted away.  To top it all off, Sean (he in the yellow jersey) rode with me out to Highway 5.  Ah, the biking gods were looking out for me.

Had a good ride eastward on to Williamsburg, meeting two solo riders who are heading west.  This area is quite beautiful and has just a tad bit of Revolutionary and Civil War history.  I tried to stop at all of the road-side signs pointing out historical names and events, but I would probably still be out there had I not cruised by some of them.  Interesting area.  I think a person could spend quite a bit of time just researching and visiting the various points of interest.

Today I will be riding the 12 miles over to Yorktown (Atlantic Ocean once again), try to find a new tire and then head west tomorrow.  Feels good.

Feels good to know I won't be taking a train anytime soon ... viva le bike!!

Quick Update (May 13, 2015)

Pulled into St. Augustine, FL, this past Sunday, May 10, and immediately headed to the beach to take a look at the Atlantic Ocean.  Felt good to have reached this goal ... approximately 2350 miles and just under seven weeks since leaving Globe, AZ.  Beautiful day and beautiful city in which to finish.

Shared a wonderful meal and mini-celebration with Cynthia and Rawley, the couple I had met back at the Prada store in West Texas.  Nice way to finish. Funny how mini-communities develop while on the road.  I have been emailing/texting with five other cycling tourists ... folks I may not have spent more than an hour or an evening with ... but the friendships are real.

I am now heading to Savannah, GA.  The plan is to take Amtrak to Richmond, VA later this week, then head west on the TransAm Route.  Thanks to Linda Matson for helping me decipher the mysteries of the Amtrak system.

Georgia ... hot and humid.  Even though it seems to be a derogatory slur aimed at the Arizona desert, I will take the dry heat.

'Tis time to hit the road for another joyful day ... hope the wind is going my way.

Uninspired (May 6, 2015)

I read recently that one's view of the world is controlled by one's point of view.  I think there is truth in that adage.

My point of view of late has been one of visual boredom.   I left the green alleys of the wooded areas and headed to the Gulf Coast of Florida thinking I would be tantalized by the white beaches and blue Gulf waters.  But what I actually saw were huge beach houses built on stilts and twenty-to-thirty story condominiums lining the shore line ... and lots of traffic.

So I headed back to the  Southern Tier (green alley) route ... less traffic but also less visual stimulation.

Since the scenery was not stimulating new thoughts, I began thinking about the "sameness" of many areas of the U.S.  I do not have the ability to identify, or rather locate where I am, by identifying types of trees (which line the roads).  Road construction, for the most part, is uniform throughout the country.  So, when riding these green alleys, one gets the feeling they could be anywhere in the U.S. with similar weather and elevation conditions.

Towns ... depending on the size and economic strength, one sees the same national brands.   Very small villages will most likely have a Dollar General store and a gas station/convenience store (with a Subway tucked in the corner of the convenience store).  From there, as the village becomes a town, then a city, the usual national brands, with pre-designed site-adapted structures show-up ... Waffle House, Exxon/Shell/Chevron, stand-alone Subway stores, Circle K, McDonald's, Taco Bell, Pizza Hut, CVS/Walgreens drug stores, regional grocery stores, and then the national hotel chains ... then the big one ... Walmart.  Interestingly, one of the long time public dislikes of Walmart has been the negative impact of a Walmart on locally owned businesses.  Makes me wonder why all of these other companies have not received similar treatment.  Surprisingly, haven't seen any Starbucks for many a week.

Structures ... residential and commercial structures designed and built in the past fifteen to twenty years have also become quite uniform. Personal fashion and style has also become nationalized rather than regionalized.

Sameness ... everywhere.   Thankfully there are a few wayward folks, such as the individual who conceived the bay-front residence in the adjacent photo.

On a positive note, I had the good fortune to have enjoyed two lunches with friends over the past three days.  Three days ago I shared a table and conversation with Kim's mother and step-father.  They live southeast of Pensacola, and drove up to Crestview to join me for lunch ... during my travels with Kim, Kim's mother and I had many a conversation via email.  Was a joy to actually meet them.

Yesterday, Claire and Bob Rogers pulled up behind me in Chattahoochee ... they are on their way to visit family in Georgia and West Virgina.  We had been communicating as to our locations, and finally got together.  Very timely as they headed north from Tallahassee yesterday afternoon, and I head east today.  Can't (over) say how very nice it is to sit and share time with long-time friends, other than to say it is wonderful!

So,  continuing east to the Atlantic ... about six or seven more days.  Hoping my point of view will allow me to be inspired.

They got it wrong (April 29, 2015)

My mental state yesterday morning was as gloomy as the weather predictions .... and the cloud cover.  Thankfully, Mother Nature does not take orders from those doing the predicting.

What started out as a gloomy attitude, and me clad in rain gear, ended with a joyful ride through some very attractive neighborhoods in Gulfport, Mississippi ... in shorts and t-shirt.  Having traveled through the swamps (adjacent picture) of Louisiana, I entered Mississippi and got my first view of the Gulf of Mexico.  In as much as the gray-toned overcast was still prevalent, the color of the water was equally as gray.  Other than the satisfied feeling of reaching the Gulf Coast, the emotion of seeing the Gulf was a bit of a letdown ... kind of looks like the Great Lakes since there were no waves crashing the beach.

The next week or so I will be riding along the Gulf Coast, then about another week across Florida to the Atlantic.  Ten day weather forecasts show sunny skies along the coast.

Hope the weather folks got it right this time. 

Weather (April 28, 2015)

Not a whole lot to say, other than it has been quite wet and windy for the past several days ... quite wet and windy.

Tornadoes and torrential downpours in Eastern Texas.  I am currently in Slidell, LA and heading to Gulfport, MS today ... more of the same is expected ... wet and windy (and I am not speaking of tailwinds!!).

Slidell is located about 30 miles northeast of New Orleans ... New Orleans, where a few railroad cars were blown off of an overpass yesterday.  As I say, weather.

Don't know if the adjacent picture adequately shows it, but my fingertips are white and wrinkled from riding in the rain ... kind of similar to if one has been in a pool for an extended time.  Fortunately, it is not very cold, so the weather related discomfort is primarily due to continuous rain.

So, 'tis time to don my rain jacket and pants, and head out into "it" one more time.  Weather .... jeeeez.

Out of the Woods (April 24, 2015)

For the past several days of riding, the views have been pretty much limited to the paved road, 30' of cleared area on each side of the pavement and the tall barrier of trees.  Occasionally there were fields cleared for farming ... also clearings (scars) left by the logging industry.  The roads are primarily minor roads, which usually means a lack of pavement to the right of the white line ... also means true excitement when the logging trucks roar by.

I have been fairly loyal to the Southern Tier route, but have decided I have seen enough of the wooded areas of Louisiana.  I am now headed to the Gulf Coast, planning on viewing vast amounts of water east of New Orleans (and hopefully soft ocean breezes ... did I mention the constant 90%+ humidity??).

Today's revised route took me through some beautiful areas that were viewable due to the lack of tall trees crowding the roads.  Partly due to the fact that I failed my Draft physical back in 1968 (that and having lived in the desert for most of my life), I have never viewed rice paddies.  Today I rode past many, many, many flooded paddies, which in truth did not help to reduce the level of humidity.

Because of the dampness of the air, I just did not mind getting drenched by a thunder storm toward the end of today's ride ... I was already drenched ... it was the lightening that was a concern.  All in the day of a cycling tourist.

But I love all of this.  Particularly the motel at the end of the day rather than a tent in the woods.

Ups and Downs (April 22, 2015)

After leaving the comfort of Kim's place in Austin, I have spent four days experiencing a variety of "ups and downs".  Naturally, with Austin being located in the "Hill Country", there were a number of geological ups and downs.

The "ups and downs" that affected me the most were mental.

Location-wise, I have been riding eastward about 40 miles north of Houston ... and Houston is north of the Gulf of Mexico.  A tremendous weather pattern emerged from the Gulf producing extreme weather warnings and much flooding.  The nightly thunderstorms have been overwhelming to this "but it is a dry heat" guy.

This past weekend there was to be a MS 150 charity bike ride from Houston to Austin.  The plan was for the riders to ride from Houston to La Grange on Saturday, then on to Austin on Sunday.  The fairgrounds in La Grange were set up to accommodate the 13,000 riders (yes, that is correct ... thirteen thousand!!).  Friday night the storms brought over two inches of rain which resulted in the fairgrounds being flooded.  They ended up cancelling the Houston/La Grange leg, and just had the Sunday ride into Austin.  I was fortunate to ease into La Grange just prior to the rain falling (all night, I might add), and got into one of the few motel rooms available in town.

The next day I rode on to Navasota, TX, and camped in the city park.  Hurricane force winds (I thought I was going to be airlifted in my tent) and a huge downpour for most of the night.  Very disconcerting to be in such a storm with the thinnest of materials  protecting me from the elements. 
Sometimes a trite phrase really applies ... I was not a happy camper.

Due to this unhappy experience, I decided to overnight the next evening in a nice motel.  Unfortunately, my bad attitude and tiredness led me to have a few too many beers ... not a pleasant episode.  Riding with a hangover is not fun either.

So that is the mental "down side" ... what followed the next overnight was heaven sent.

About three miles east of the Texas town of Shepherd, there is a small retreat center/campground called Shepherd Sanctuary.  The lady who owns/runs the place, (Connie) is one of the gentlest people one could meet.  She and her family had been flooded out in Houston during the Katrina storm.  They had previously bought property near Shepherd, and decided to leave Houston and develop this facility.  To try to describe it would be futile, other than to say the rental cabins, the thousands of eclectic antique items scattered in and around the place is highly amusing ... and surprisingly peaceful.  The Venus de Milo-like statue pictured above goes almost unnoticed due to all the other items that catch the eye.  (Google "Shepherd Sanctuary Shepherd, TX for a look at the facility.)

We did not discuss religion, but I am sure she has followed the teaching of Buddha.  As seemingly cluttered as the entire place is, there is a very strong calming element. 

So I am mentally up this morning having put in a strong 65 miles yesterday (did I mention the roads have now flattened??), and will be exiting the great state of Texas today or tomorrow.  I have been riding across (and across, and across, and across) Texas for the past 21 days, and have logged just over 1300 miles since leaving Globe, AZ on March 24.

Much like everyday life, there are many "ups and downs" out here on the road.  For now ... dare I say it ... life is good.

Vanishing Comments (April 22, 2015)

It has come to my attention that at times friends (and foes alike) have been having difficulty in getting comments posted.  After some research, and several sample comment posting on my part, I have reached the following conclusion:  I don't know what may be causing the difficulty.

I do know that there sometimes is a lag between hitting the "publish" button and the comment being posted due to a "moderator" delay.  Other than that, I haven't a clue.

If any past "successful" commenters have some advice, please do share.

Like Moses ... (April 16, 2015)

After what seemed like an eternity of traveling through Arizona, New Mexico and West Texas, I have finally emerged from the desert.  Not being remotely close to being a Biblical scholar, I am hoping that reference is correct ... I had initially thought "40 days and 40 nights", but I think that is Noah's story.

Upon leaving Del Rio (former home of Wolfman Jack and the 500,000 watt AM radio broadcasts heard as far north as Chicago and far reaching both east and west back in the late 1950's ... rock 'n' roll!!!), the desert was left behind.  What had been brown and hot turned to green and over-cast cool.  Had a short ride (34 miles) to Brackettville/Fort Clark and ended up camping at the Fort Clark RV/Tent area.  Much to my joy, there were three other touring cyclist sharing the tent area.   Nick and Greg are long-time friends who are from Colorado, and Ian, who is from Las Vegas, is riding solo.  Nick is riding coast-to-coast, and Greg drove down for twelve days of riding (he would drive to the next over-night town, then ride his bike back and join Nick).  It was a true joy to share the campground with these three fellow cyclist.

The next three days included riding to Uvalde (42 miles), Hondo (43 miles) and Kerrville (56 miles).  The first two days of this leg were on fairly straight and flat roads ... and just enough of a headwind to remind one that one did not have a tailwind.  The ride up to Kerrville was the entry into the Hill Country that dominates the areas around Austin.  The adjacent picture gives an idea of the beauty of this area ... the riding has been a delight since leaving Hondo for Kerrville.

A word about the term "Hill Country" ... when phrases such as this are used to describe terrain one can deduce what one is getting into.  Example:  if you are heading to a town by the name of "Mountain Top", you can put all your cash into a bet that you are probably going to be climbing for a while.  Same with "Hill Country" (actually should be called "Hills Country") ... lots of short/steep climbs followed by exhilarating short/steep descents.  Beautiful country with a wonderful palette of yellow, blue and rust-colored wildflowers against the green grasslands.  I have been repeatedly told I have arrived at a time of flowers and green grasslands ... I am indeed a lucky traveler.

I met up with Nick and Greg in Kerrville, and was fortunate in that they invited me to join them for dinner.  Most often when this occurs when touring, one is limited as to distance to eateries.  In this case, we piled into Greg's truck and drove a great distance to a nice restaurant overlooking a beautiful river.  Good (new) friends, good views, so-so food and good beer made for a most excellent evening (not to mention riding in a vehicle with wide/soft seats!!).  Good time.

The next day I rode the 54 miles to the home town of LBJ ... oddly enough the town goes by the name of Johnson City.  Another beautiful ride.  The high-point of getting to Johnson City was greeting a smiling Kim, who had spent the day riding out from Austin.  I met Kim three summers ago on the cross-country ride from Oregon to Maryland.  The following year we then met in Minneapolis, and rode up into Canada and back to Bar Harbor, Maine.

We spent the evening enjoying a surprisingly good dinner and a not-so-surprising very enjoyable conversation.  There is a lot to be said for sharing time with (old) friends.

The next day (yesterday), we rode the 44 miles to Austin on some incredibly beautiful back roads, which, as it turns out, are also incredibly steep.  Painful as it was for me, it was a joy to be riding with Kim again.  Today I am enjoying a rest day at Kim's house, and have received a tour of Austin.  Impressive city.

On a side note, Kim is leaving next week to hike the Camino de Santiago 450 mile trail in Spain.  She had asked me to join her and her sister for this trek ... but, frankly, I ain't that crazy!

So tomorrow I head on toward Florida  and should be getting to the Atlantic Ocean around May 20 ... but unlike Moses, I don't think I will attempt to part the sea.

Got to Love Them Texans (April 16, 2015)

If you have stayed in a motel/hotel in the past several years that include breakfast with the room, you are no doubt familiar with the waffle-makers that typically result in a round waffle.

Texans have taken "state pride" to a new level ... check out the pattern on this waffle-maker. 

Got to love them Texans!!

Desert Views (April 10, 2015)

It has been five more days of riding through West Texas.  Five more days of viewing varying types of desert flora.  Five more days of dealing with wind.  But five more days of seeing an area of the country that I have not seen before.

Other than the desert, most of the things unseen before have to do with the many small towns that one passes through ... small towns that are for the most part closing down.   The Southern Tier route in West Texas primarily follows the railroad tracks.  Many of the small towns developed around the economic boom brought along with the building of the railroad route in the 1880s.  The highways then connected these towns as the era of automobiles came in the early 20th Century.  But then the Interstate Highway system was built in the 1950s-60s on more direct routes, and the smaller towns were bypassed.  So now many of the small towns are returning to the desert as the mostly wooden structures deteriorate.

If it were not for the overwhelming presence of the Border Patrol, I don't think there would be much of any economic activity in this area.  Most of the larger towns (population of 1,000 +) usually have a large Border Patrol facility ... each of these facilities must have in excess of 150 vehicles patrolling their specific area.  Helicopters, blimps and hundreds of vehicles searching the area for the illegal entrants.

It seems as though this whole "close the border" campaign has been relatively new to our society.  In reading some of the historical roadside plaques, I have become aware of the fact that there were "mounted watchers" and bi-planes used in the post-WWI era, which means the chase has been on for some time.

Anyway, since leaving Van Horn, the overnights have been at Marfa (75 miles), Marathon (57 miles), Sanderson (55 miles), Langtry (60 miles) and Del Rio (60 miles) ... all in West Texas.

On the ride from Van Horn to Marfa, I finally met up with the Canadian couple I had been hearing about for many a day.  Out in the middle of none-thing-ness (about 26 miles west of Marfa), there stands a lone structure showcasing Prada products.  Lounging in the shade (which is a rare commodity in this part of the country) were Cynthia and Rollie.  So very nice to meet-up with other touring cyclist.  We had a short conversation and thought we would be seeing each other on a daily basis.  Even though it turns out we overnighted in the same towns, riding schedules did not coincide.  I again met up with them yesterday in a restaurant in Comstock (30 miles west of Del Rio).  Again, the conversation was very enjoyable.  Alas, they are taking a rest day today, and are considering (due to a health issue) renting a small Uhaul van and driving to Austin.  I will be arriving in Austin on the 15th of this month (body and bike willing), so don't know if we will be getting together again.  Not many other riders heading east, so it could continue to be a solo ride.

So, time to load up the bike and head east, hopefully the desert views will soon be a thing of the past.

The Wind Doest Blow (April 4,2015)

The wind also doest suck.

Unbelievable ... night and day the wind blows ... night and day.  Doesn't matter to me this evening as I have opted for a motel room in Van Horn, TX ... let it blow.

Short story:  Last night I camped in the Sierra Blanca town park, and the only spot that I could find that was remotely protected from the wind was the stage area of the band shell ... nice but difficult to anchor the tent with stakes given the concrete floor.  The evening's inconvenience due to the wind was outweighed by the nearness to the railroad tracks ... actually by the noise of the 15 to 20 trains that came through town last night (horns were blared at each of the five roads crossing the tracks!).  Not much sleep last night, which makes this evening's enclosed motel room that much sweeter.

Side note to Peg Jorgensen:  While much of what I mention could be construed as whining, actually I am just offering up observations of occurrences inherent in bike touring.  There is much joy for the majority of the time while riding.  Besides, as was pointed out in Sandy and Mark Doumas's journal ...  real touring cyclist don't whine.

Having said that ... 34 miles into 18 to 20 mph headwinds all day today ... waaaaaaaa.

Still heading east.  The road sign in the adjacent pictures is 10 miles west of  Van Horn ... 510 miles west of Dallas ... it may be years before I exit Texas.

And the wins blows ...

Looking for Positives (April 2, 2015)

On previous rides along coastal areas or northern routes, views of the landscapes often leaves one in awe of nature.  On this particular ride, I have to say that I am not seeing much "wow".  Other than the rides up and over the two major passes (Mule Creek and Emory), the desert terrain has been most blah.

After leaving Silver City four days ago, the overnights (and mileage) have been Hillsboro (56 miles), Arrey (23 miles), Las Cruces (57 miles) and El Paso (47 miles).  The ride to Hillsboro included the climb up and over Emory Pass, which proved to be a challenge ... 2,500 feet in 16 miles.  Starting in the heat of the high desert proved to be physically taxing.  By the time I reached the pass, the weather had changed to overcast, cold  and windy ... very windy (and not the wind that pushes from behind!).  Toward the end of the climb I called on my usual climbing-mantra which consists of various biblical and sexual references ... not something I would repeat in mixed company.

The 16 mile ride down to Hillsboro was pure joy.  Down-side of arriving was that other than a winery outlet, nothing was open in the way of food or drink.  Fortunately, there are those who drink-and-drive, as I was able to receive a cold beer from a young guy who stopped at the city park to relieve himself of previously consumed beer.  While I discourage the act of drinking-and-driving ... that beer was mighty tasty!

The ride from Hillsboro takes one east to the Rio Grande River, then southward paralleling I-25.  I stopped at the Arrey RV Park due to a perceived lack of camping opportunities further south toward  Hatch, NM, which was only another 20 miles or so.  This RV park was quite interesting in that the overall ambiance was that of a used tire store located in a small town such as Eloy.  While it served the purpose of an overnight camping spot, it had a certain level of grime in all facets.   Almost all of the semi-permanent residents were grizzled-looking guys who spent their daylight hours prospecting for gold.  From the looks of most of the RVs, I don't think their efforts have proved to be profitable.  Interesting and friendly folks to talk with, but just of a different breed.

If ever you have wondered where RVs and/or trailer homes go to die, come on over to this area.  

The following day I headed south to Las Cruces, which proved to be quite a boring (visually) trek.  Lots of green and red pepper fields and more barren/trimmed-back pecan trees than I have ever seen.  I mentioned earlier that I stopped at the Arrey RV Park because I did not see any camping facilities south of the park toward Hatch.  Much to my disappointment, upon entering Hatch from the north I saw a most wonderful (new) city park adjacent to a new Community Recreation Center.  Now it may be that they do not allow overnight camping, but most small towns do realizing that overnight campers spend money.

Anyway, finished the day's ride in Las Cruces and enjoyed the luxury of an inexpensive motel, then on to El Paso yesterday.  More agriculture and loads of pecan trees ... and wind.

One of the common reasons non-bike riders in Tucson give for not riding on the streets of Tucson is fear of the car and truck traffic.  Those folks should come over to El Paso ... at one point I stopped to check the back of my shirt to see if someone had surreptitiously attached a target.  Scarey, to say the least.

So today I head east into West Texas.  Looking at the maps it appears that there is very little in the way of services, so it should be interesting.  The past two days I have been told of two other touring cyclist just ahead of me by a half-hour or so ... hoping to catch up to them in the next day or two.

Catching up to them would be a definite positive. 

And This Ain't Globe (March 28, 2015)

From the prevailing brownness of my first couple days getting from Globe to Safford, the colors of the landscape have taken a turn to green, then back to brown ... and my face and arms have taken on a distinct red tone due to a cloudless sky and hot daytime temps.

I have often said that no matter how much one trains prior to leaving on a bike tour, the first three or four days are hard on the body.  When you are training you come home to your kitchen, your furniture, and most importantly, your own bed.  Maybe what you should do during the training period is eat your meals out of the local Circle K and bed down in a sleeping bag at a local meat freezer.  Just a thought.

Indeed, the first three days were difficult, but I am feeling better and getting back into the swing of touring ... even managed to get temporarily lost this afternoon in Silver City, NM ... tells me I am officially touring.

Yesterday was the brown-to-green-to-brown day.  Camped the previous night at a place called Three Way, AZ (about 9 miles south of Clifton ... odd they call it Three Way as it is a four-way intersection).  The morning started with a 13.5 mile/2600' climb up to Mule Creek Pass.  The climb was well worth it as it took me up to pine country ... beautiful.  After cruising through the pines, I enjoyed a wonderful down hill to the Mule Creek area.  As the adjacent picture shows, this is an area of rolling grass-covered hills, with the mountains of the Gila Wilderness area beyond.  The road follows the natural terrain, so while visually it is a delight, physically it is quite painful.  This particular area ran for about 12 miles of the second half of the day's 44 miles.  Ouch.

Today I rode the 37 miles from Buckhorn, NM to Silver City ... another day of some climbing, including cresting the Continental Divide.  My goal was to make it to Silver City in time to watch the Arizona Wildcat's basketball game.  Oh well, so much for feeling good about that bunch of bums ... fire'em all!!!

Tomorrow's ride will include the major climb up and over Emery Pass ... about 2500' climb.  Another three or four days and I will be heading eastward across Texas. 

So far the ride is going well, but man it was hot today.

This Ain't the Northwest (March 25, 2015)

Over the past six summers, I have spent many-a-mile riding through the greenery of the Northwest, the Pacific Coast, upper Midwest and New England.  Lots of green.

Just started this summer's bike tour yesterday ... started in Globe, AZ and heading eastward on the ACA Southern Tier route.  For those who are unfamiliar with the area east of Globe ... lots of desert brown coupled with more desert brown ... and wind ... and shortage of places to camp.

While it feels good to be out riding again, the riding so far has been less than exciting.  I had planned to put in about 40 miles, then find a spot off road to set-up the tent.  Talked to a young English lady who was riding westward, and she indicated the only place she saw to camp was a park in Ft. Thomas ... 53 miles from Globe.  53 miles is doable unless you are confronted with a head wind.  I was cooked on reaching Ft. Thomas, but the park felt better than just pulling off the road.  Even though I did not get much sleep due to trains and trucks, it was okay.

Short 22 mile ride into Safford today for which I am grateful as my legs were sending an emphatic message ...  holding up in a hotel this evening, feeling much better and hopeful of a sound night's sleep.

Recognizing the difference in physical effort required in "planning" and actually "doing" ... I am planning on following the Southern Tier to Florida, then (depending on mental attitude) ride north along the Atlantic Ocean to Richmond, VA.  After that, I (again) "plan" to head west on the ACA TransAm route.  Planning is the easy part.

So that is the long-term plan ... short-term plan is to climb up into bed (as opposed to crawling into my tent) and sleep soundly.  Sleep is good.