Calm After the Storm (June 29, 2012)

The weather gods have relented … four days of brutal wind-related riding is now a thing of the past.  All is well with the world (for now).

After having been beaten almost senseless by the wind, the rest day in West Yellowstone was most warranted … and most appreciated.  We did the tourist think (IMAX, museums, etc.) and the chore things (clean and lube chain, do laundry, pay a visit to the ATM, reconcile financial accounts) and the resting thing.  A most productive day topped off by a nice Italian dinner and a DQ ice cream cone.  Ice cream is being consumed in quantities most shocking.

Yesterday’s ride of 58 miles from West Yellowstone to Grant Village Campground was pure joy.  Beautifully calm warm day of riding … the common statement about riding through Yellowstone Park being “very dangerous” did not hold true for us.  The first half of the day took us to Old Faithful (again doing the tourist thing).  Pretty impressive show of the power of nature … also impressive was the quality of the food we consumed … one of us finished off with ice cream … me, I had a giant cookie and (more) coffee.  Hard to believe I am losing weight.

I should note that the day did not start out as a real happy-go-lucky day for me.  First the young man taking breakfast orders would not allow me to substitute hash browns for the bacon (“It says no substitutes right there on the menu, sir.”)  Turns out the young man did not realize I had yet to have my first cup of coffee.  I made my amends, and all ended well (he did not charge us for coffee). 

The next confrontation occurred at the entry gate into the Park.  Being an old guy who carries a “National Parks Senior Pass”, I (according to the rules as I understand them) and two guests are able to enter a National Park at no charge.  I presented my card and was allowed free entry … then the Ranger said that Kim would need to pay.  When I asked about “… and two guests …” he stated that that only applies if the two guests are in a vehicle with the card holder.  My response was immediate and did not fall into the ranks of showing respect for a man in a uniform.  Anyway, he let her enter at no cost … probably just to get my ass down the road.  I still think he was not correct, but it matters little at this stage.

Anyway, back to the riding.  The afternoon’s ride on to Grant Village was spectacular.  It was a wonderful day of riding.  Met back up with Roger and Frank, whom we had not seen in several days.

Today’s ride to Hatchet USFS Campground (59 miles) was again a magnificent day.  Weather, although on the warm side this afternoon, was most agreeable.  Exiting Yellowstone Park and entering the Grand Teton National Park took us through such scenic beauty that one almost stops appreciating what is seen.  That held true until rounding a curve and being overpowered by the view of the Grand Teton mountain range on the far side of a massive lake.  Plain and simple … awe inspiring . I have been on the road now for a little over a month, and have pedaled the bike through some truly beautiful country in Oregon, Idaho, Montana and now Wyoming … but the Grand Teton range takes the trophy.

Life is good.  I realized at one point yesterday that I was completely at peace.  What an amazing experience … a “gift” is what Kim called it, and I tend to agree.  I am not a religious man, but …

So tomorrow we head to Dubois, WY … another 50 + mile day.  However we will be confronted with an approximately 3,000 foot climb over Togwatee Pass.  At 9658’, it will be the tallest pass I will have traversed (assuming I make it) on a bike.  Should be a moment to savor.

If you (the reader) are a cyclist, get you and your bike up here and experience what is offered to those who travel slowly.  If you (the reader) are not a cyclist, then come up here anyway. 

Pictures taken by my pocket-digital camera or by my iPhone can not capture what is seen by the eye … ‘tis a shame because I wish I could adequately share what I have seen over the past two days.

As I say, life is good.

30 Second Summary (June 26, 2012)

30 seconds of your time will give you an idea of what we have been dealing with over the past four days.  For the past three days the bulk of the days have been riding into this type of headwind (20 to 25 mph w/ gusts up to 45 mph) ... also enjoyed was riding with the wind coming from the side.

This morning Kim, Andrew and I were packing our gear at 5:30, or so. and hitting the road ... four hours later we had covered a little less than 20 miles.  Brutal.

Rest day in Yellowstone Park tomorrow.  AAAAAAAHHHHHHH!

Air Assault (June 25, 2012)

The past three days of riding has been extraordinary. Not in the sense of being nice and awe inspiring, but in the sense of being “ah damn” inspiring.

Friday’s ride of 54 miles from Lost Trails Resort to Jackson Hot Springs included two passes of 7014’ and 7264’. Actually the two passes were close together, so officially should be considered only one pass … but what the hell, it sounds more impressive to speak of two passes. The second pass, Chief Joseph Pass is also the Continental Divide. It should be noted that the effort of climbing so demolished me that I did not see the very large “Continental Divide” sign. The downhill to Wisdom (this seems to be contradictory to the oft characterized “climbing a mountain to reach the guru who will share some wisdom” cartoon) … anyway, the downhill to Wisdom, MT was quite beautiful and absolutely a rider’s delight. With only 19 miles to go, it seemed as though the day was pretty much done and pretty much enjoyable. Not so.

The 19 miles from Wisdom to Jackson Hot Springs rides thru an exceptionally flat and exceptionally wet area … wet as in “the perfect breeding ground for mosquitoes” wet. You think you can deal with these pests until you can’t. Kim and I tried various techniques including swatting, spraying, long sleeves and pants, etc. … pretty much to no avail. To worsen the situation, Kim (who has been having to deal with flat tires for much of the past week), once again had to deal with the rear-tire rim being at pavement level. The thought of attempting to replace the tube did not appeal to her, so she employed the “pump-and-ride” technique. Mosquitoes … air assault #1.

We all camped at the Jackson Hot Springs Resort, where Roger, Frank and Kim finally determined that the problem with Kim’s rear tire (repeated flats) was that the rim tape was defective. Watching them all wrestle with the rim, tape, tubes and tire prompted me to ask (being the wise-ass that I am), “How many cyclists does it take to change a light bulb?” Kim responded, “If it is my light bulb, more than one.” Or something like that. Frank and Roger’s looks at me conveyed another response. Kim commented that she is very grateful for the many bike-maintenance skills she is learning from Frank and Roger … these guys know their stuff. Me … I guess my stuff most of the time.

Air assault #2 came around 9:00 PM that evening … as we all headed into our respective tents for a quiet night of sleeping, the country western band fired up their amps.

The next day’s ride to Dillon (52 miles) included two passes of 7400’ and 6760’. These passes would be difficult enough, but 20 mph winds (I might be exaggerating here) made the climbs extremely difficult. For most of the first climb the wind was directly into our faces, the second pass had the wind coming from the south. While the head wind makes riding difficult, the side wind makes the riding scary. Continual buffeting from the side pushes you sideways when you least expect the push, or doesn’t push you when you expect it (air assault #3). Reaching Dillon was a great relief. Camped at the KOA and was serenaded by the announcer of the nearby Senior Rodeo.

Day three (49 miles to Alder, MT) did not include any passes, but the wind did not give us a pass. The initial 28 miles to Twin Bridges was easy … strong tailwind out of the south; the final 21 miles to Alder were very difficult. Even though this area is extremely flat, I could only manage about 7 mph … very strong headwind indeed. When we reached Alder, Frank, Kim and I stood outside a store. Kim espied a motel across the street, checked it out, and returned with the news that rooms were available, the rooms were very nice, and the rooms were only $50. It did not take me long to consider this option versus camping in the wind at the local KOA … decision made instantly. Comfort is good.

So the last few days have been good (great riding group, and beautiful scenic country) but difficult due to the air assaults … and today‘s ride looks to be equally windy. Oh joy!!

But all-in-all, ‘tis a good way to spend the day/summer.

Odd Tan Lines (June 21, 2012)

Finally, some warm dry days. It is ever so nice to stop to take off layers of clothing as opposed to adding layers … ever so nice.

After a productive and restive day in Missoula, we have been heading south on U.S. 93, heading into the Rockies. Lots of snow covered mountains surround us, but for the most part the path has been warm and dry.

We (Kim, Andrew, Roger, Frank and I) met up yesterday morning at the Adventure Cycling office in Missoula. Traditionally, touring cyclist stop by the office to pose for pictures and generally celebrate the joy of touring. One wall is covered with Polaroid pictures of recent visitors … it was a joy to see pictures of many fellow cyclist we have met over the past three weeks.

Yesterday’s ride was very nice … 58 miles to Hamilton, MT. Hamilton is a town of around 3,000 population, but there seemed to be a sophistication (public facilities, restaurants, retailers) of a much larger town. Kim had contacted a lady listed on the Warmshowers website about lodging for the night … so we five pitched our tents in Terry and Carl Tignor’s backyard. Their son had crossed the U.S. on his bicycle several years ago and had received much kindness on his trek … as a result, Terry has offered lodging (and much kindness) to touring cyclist. Besides her graciousness, she provided us with home baked cinnamon rolls, lemonade, wonderful conversation, and “strong-gets-you-started-in-the-morning” coffee.

Terry has been offering lodging since 2009. In our conversation, she was relating a story about a couple who had spent the night back in 2009 … a couple who had been traveling through Europe, Africa, and (at the time) had crossed the U.S. When she mentioned that the couple was now in Borneo I realized that she was talking of Amaya and Eric, a couple that had stayed with me when I lived in Phoenix. Another chapter in the “it’s a small world” book.

Today’s ride of 42 miles brings us to the base of the climb over Loss Trail Pass. We are currently at an elevation of 5225’ and the Pass is at 7014’. Shortly after cresting this Pass, we will then head up and over Chief Joseph Pass at 7264’. This climbing will begin immediately at the start of tomorrow’s ride … ouch.

As I mentioned, today was a warm day, which felt wonderful. But I realized upon toweling off my face that the helmet air vents also allow sun to penetrate onto my un-tanned forehead … striped tan-line on my forehead. Guess I will need to go helmetless one of these days to even out my appearance. That, or wear a very odd tan line

January??? (June 19, 2012)

Years ago there was a movie by the name of Endless Summer. It is my assumption that the screen writer was not from the Idaho/Montana area. Man, this cold wet weather just seems to follow us as we head east.

Today is a rest day in Missoula, MT. Overcast with light drizzle from time-to-time ... mid 50s. Longing for some of that desert heat.

The previous three days of riding were through some of the most scenic areas I have witnessed on this summer's (winter's???) trek. Shortly after leaving Grangeville, we descended 4 to 5 miles of extremely steep winding thrilling fun exhilarating fantastic down hill. Little-to-no traffic ... most excellent. Did I mention fun? The rest of the day's 51 miles into Lowell, ID was along various rivers which were stunning ... stunning to the point that after a while you just forget about stopping to take pictures. It seemed that every turn of the road presented another Kodak moment. Camped in the Three Rivers RV Resort ... guess what ... rain.

The next day's ride into Powell presented 65 miles of slight up hill riding with intermittent rain. Once again, most beautiful. Once again, wet and cold (at times). The day's ride ended at the Lochsa Lodge, which has been remodeled since my last visit four summers ago. Very nice lodge/restaurant, beautiful surroundings, and no electricity upon waking. Being the road warriors/pioneers that we are (as well as coffee addicts), I broke out the camp stove and Starbucks instant coffee. The two couples immediately adjacent to my cabin were equally addicted, so we shared a wonderful morning chat session fueled by coffee and love of traveling on two wheels. They are headed to Alaska on motorcycles. While our days consist of 50 to 60 miles, they think in terms of 350 to 400 miles per day.

Finally the extreme hardship of no electricity was halted, and a wonderful breakfast consumed. Awaiting after breakfast, right out of the chute, was a 13 mile climb up and over Lolo Pass. While the climb is not too extreme, the return of wet and cold made the ride less than enjoyable. The positive is that the rest of the day's 58 mile ride was primarily down hill ... slight tailwind ... cruising at around 20 mph ... aahhhh.

Traveling with Frank, Roger and Kim as been a joy. Frank, being the strong rider that he is, usually pulls ahead quickly. Roger, being the Roger that he is, rides along at an easy pace observing any and all things viewable. While Kim and I ride at a fairly similar pace, it not uncommon for her to slowly pull ahead. But we all seem to end up in the same area for lunch and/or night's gatherings. Oh, and yesterday Andrew (who withdrew from the road for a week or so back in Mount Vernon) has rejoined the group. Good times await us all.

So today has been restive and somewhat busy taking care of various errands. My day has also been filled with trepidation of the coming week's ride to Yellowstone. Even though I have gained a very good level of fitness, the three or four giant climbs are messing with my confidence. I sincerely hope that by this time next week I will be thinking that the passes were not as difficult as I feared.

I am also hoping I will be cursing summer heat.

Seemingly Always an Up (June 16, 2012)

It seems like having been on a four-day long roller coaster ride. For each of the last four days the rides included a substantial climb of some sort.

After a truly wonderful rest day in Baker City, we headed out for the 71 mile trek to Oxbow, OR. I should interject how wonderful a day spent in a huge town of 10,000 +/- population can be after passing through towns of miniscule population. To actually have a choice of several eating establishments and be able to spend time in a quality book store restores one's sense of urbanization (not sure that is even a word, let alone of the correct spelling). I am an unashamed city boy ... what can I say.

Anyway, back to the ride. The first half of the day was a fairly easy ride, but being that it was four days ago, little sticks in my memory. Frank and I stopped in Redland (I think) for lunch. To borrow a phrase from a Linda Matson touring story, I met the "mythical" Kim. Frank had met Kim way back on the Coast, and I had heard ongoing references to Kim throughout our sojourn across Oregon. As we were leaving the small cafe, two other riders (with whom Kim had been riding) rode in to town. So there we were, six of us (Roger returned from his quest for his quart of yogurt) ... six of us and our massive bikes/panniers and bright-colored clothing ... most enjoyable.

Anyway, back to the ride. After this luncheon interlude, we were presented with what turned out to be one of the most difficult climbs of the tour. It wasn't that the road was so steep (although it seemed so), or that the elevation gain was so great (although it seemed so) ... it was that it was so damned hot! As is to be expected in such circumstances, the summit sign was a relief to see. We all managed to crest the climb, and gathered at a very nice campground in Oxbow, OR. Six small tents scattered around a single tent-site ... $10 fee split six ways. It was a beautiful evening until a tremendous rain storm prompted us all to dive into our tents. Sleep came quickly.

At this point I do not remember that much about the next two days of riding (Oxbow to Council, ID ... 64 miles, and Council to Riggins ... 62 miles). What does stand out was the lodging/eating. I should mention that Kim has been riding with Roger, Frank and I since the cafe in Redland. Kim shares my dislike of all things camping and love of all things enclosed lodging. In Council, Kim and I partook in the joy of a pizza and salad bar. Very citified, don'cha know. Then it was off to Riggins.

For the better part of the final 30 miles into Riggins, the road runs along the Little Salmon River. For the worst part of that thirty miles, there is about five miles of incredibly steep (down, thankfully) of incredibly no-bike-lane, of incredibly trafficked ... horrifying ... pedal your ass off and pray that there are no semi-trucks needing to pass in opposite directions. I rarely am concerned about my safety while out touring, but this scared the holy-hell out of me. When we arrived in Riggins, we discovered that every salmon fisherman known to the Universe was in town. Where to lay our heads that evening was a serious question. Kim (did I mention her "love of camping"), had opted for a motel, and was very fortunate to book what may have been the last room available in town. She asked the owner if her three traveling mates could camp somewhere on the motel grounds. Not only did he allow us to set up our tents (at no cost), but he brought us each a complimentary beer. If ever you are in Riggins, go the the Iron Mountain Lodge ... owners are exceptional and the quality of the facility was very comfortable.

Yesterday's ride from Riggins to Grangeville (54 miles) included a substantial 2700' elevation climb to White Bird Summit. There are two highways to the summit ... the new highway which is just a steady grade (at 7%) or the old Highway 95 which included approximately 500,000 switchbacks. Frank, Kim and I opted for the old highway; Roger the new. Although it was a long climb, the climbing was not overly difficult (easy to say now that I am resting on a comfortable bed waiting for the ibuprofen to kick in). Frank did his usual act of dropping me in a hurry (the man can climb, to say the list). Kim and I rode at a similar pace, and shared our disgust with the summit not coming around each corner. There was almost no traffic on the old highway, so it made for good riding (other than the continual up-ness). At one point a van stopped along side of us to congratulate us ... and awarded us with Reese's Peanut Butter Cups. We all made it to Grangeville and met up in the local Subway sandwich shop. Kim and I opted for hotel lodging, Frank an RV campsite, and Roger the City Park. To each their own!

Today's ride is void of a massive climb, but does include a massive down hill.

Down is good.
______
Note, the bridge in the adjacent picture is in White Bird, ID ... quite an impressive span. Court, try that with prestressed concrete!!!

A Tour to Follow (June 12, 2012)

Three summers ago, I had the good fortune to meet Steph and Leo Woodland in a campground in Glasgow, MT. Steph and Leo were riding East-to-West, and I West-to-East on the Northern Tier cycling route. We shared a picnic table and several bottles of Fat Tire Beer ... and had one of the most enjoyable evening of conversation imaginable. Leo and I have stayed in contact via email, sharing cycling comments and questionable "guy-type" messages.

Steph and Leo are retired British journalists (actually I think Steph is the younger technician that caught the old guy's attention) ... they now live in Southern France. Somewhere in my picture files I have a picture that includes Steph; when I find it I will amend this post.

Tomorrow is the start of their next bike tour. Off to find Noah's end-of-cruise landing port ... Mount Ararat.

If you enjoy wasting time reading of others' treks, I suggest you follow Leo's journal. His words are always thoughtful and full of good humor. The link to his journal is: http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/page/?o=1&page_id=284355&v=Z

(Note: When I find out how to insert an active link I will amend ... until then please cut-and-paste)

Long-ass Day (June 11, 2012)

The question was, "Do I want to have a long day or a long night?" I opted for a long day.

Two days ago, I left the campground near Mount Vernon and rode the 7 miles to John Day, OR. Frank and Roger had left the campground earlier, and we were to meet at Austin Junction later that day at one of two campgrounds.

Austin Junction's elevation is approximately 1400' higher than Mount Vernon ... it was around 39 degrees upon waking in Mount Vernon. I had reports of snow in Austin Junction and I reasoned that the temperature in Austin Junction would be down around freezing come night time.

So the question arose, did I want to spend a long night camping/freezing in Austin Junction, or stop in John Day, then ride the 80+ miles to Baker City. Really not much of a question ... my decision was an easy one.

The ride to Baker City included traversing three passes which required determination, but provided tremendous downhill runs. The forested areas up in these higher elevations reminded me of Flagstaff, except for the fact that the forest floors were covered with bright green grass ... looked much like a gigantic golf course (with some serious trees to shoot around). The weather was very nice. For most of the ride the skies were clear of clouds (and therefore, clear of rain).

For 70 of the 80 mile ride I was a happy rider ... last 10 miles or so was into a strong headwind and on a very sore ass. I was most grateful to arrive in Baker City. Today we are taking a rest day, and plan on heading downtown to take care of some shopping needs.

I have put in around 775 miles so far, and am pleased to announce that I feel no ill-effects from yesterday's long ride. Guess my "enhanced couch training method" is a viable plan.

Summer Time? (June 9, 2012)

Oregon … June … supposed to be summer. This sure ain’t summer by my way of thinking.

It is around 8:00 A.M. June 9 … 39 degrees and a slight breeze (wind chill?) from the west. Sitting in my tent (walls have zero insulation value) … damn cold. It is supposed to be warmer later this morning, so planning to wait out the cold before heading out on the road.

The last three days have followed a general theme … ride in mostly rainy weather, then camp in cold and wet surroundings. The first day out of Sisters took us to a very nice county campground east of Prineville.. This 45 mile day was partly a nice day as there were few wet miles, but it was the first day of riding in shorts and shirt sleeves in quite some time. The rains did come that evening. The following morning found Roger, Andrew and I “lounging” in the bathroom. Lest you think we were lurking, allow me to explain. It was cold and wet (per usual) outside, but the spacious bathroom was heated and had a wall-mounted hand drier. While Andrew dried clothes at the wall-mounted hand drier, while I read, and while Roger ate breakfast, we all enjoyed the warmth. Fortunately there were very few people at the campsite, so no one ventured in to use the facilities while we were there.

The next day’s ride (42 miles) brought us to the lovely urban center of Mitchell. The camping in the City Park is free, so one cannot complain about the facilities. That day’s ride took us up on to the Ochoco prairie area. Stunning views … if only the sun had been shining. Once again, rain and cold. The (only) bright spot in Mitchell is a two-booth, eight-stool café on the west edge of town … understand that this urban metropolis area is maybe two blocks long.

Inside the white building, with blue trim at windows, is the nicest owner/waitress/cook one could ever have the good fortune to meet. Four summers ago when I came through Mitchell on my first bike tour, I stopped in there for breakfast. After ordering oatmeal, she asked if I was in a hurry. She then said she did not have oatmeal, but could send her granddaughter up to her home to get the oatmeal. The food is simple, good and the charm of the lady (Sharron, I think) is immense.

Yesterday, our ride of 64 miles was very interesting. Directly out of Mitchell is a seven mile, 1300’ climb. Leaving Mitchell under blue skies, I was wearing shorts and a long sleeve jersey. About four miles up, a cold front brought chilly weather, rain and sleet. At least it also brought a tailwind, so there was an iota of “silver-lining”. Upon reaching the summit, we enjoyed a delightfully long downhill taking us into Dayville. Between the summit and Dayville was some of the most incredible scenery imaginable. This is the stretch of road that includes one of those joyful oddities of the road … a dead tree covered with shoes. There are shoes of every size and style, draped over the dead limbs. I would include a picture, but I do not think Roger would appreciate showing him up in the tree trying on shoes. The last twenty miles into the State Campground east of Mount Vernon was a delight … warm enough for shorts … strong tailwind. Pure joy!

But there is no joy in awaking to 39 degree weather

Up and Over (June 6)

Oh my, such elements in early June! For my Arizona friends, I can only say that the combined temperatures of AZ and this part of Oregon probably did not top 160 degrees.

Yesterday we rode from the McKenzie Bridge area, up over McKenzie Pass, and down to Sisters, OR. Frank and I followed Roger by about a half an hour ... slogging along at a mere 3 to 4 MPH for the majority of the 22 mile climb. At the base of the climb we were doing the old "take the rain jacket off/put it back on" dance. Light drizzle, just enough to require the rain jacket and helmet cover ... then warm and sunny (kind of) requiring removal of same. As we passed the 3000' elevation the rain turned to snow flurries. Near the 11 mile marker, we came upon Andrew who had camped up here the previous night ... it was noon-time and he was just finishing breaking camp ... the boy is not an early riser.

The remaining 11 miles was very interesting, or "extreme" as Roger so eloquently summarized this part of the climb. To properly understand the importance of Roger's comment, please understand that this man has been riding for more than 30 years (I think), and regularly puts in 20,000 +/- miles per year. This is a man who relishes the idea of camping in 30 degree weather. This is not a sane man. When he stated that there were times on the latter parts of the climb that made him nervous (which I also felt), it puts importance on the word "extreme". For a good section of the upper area we rode through two-to-three inches of accumulated snow on the road ... with serious drop-offs from the edge of the pavement.

At the top of the climb we rode through lava fields ... quite surreal. Black rock, as far as the eye could see. Black rock with splotches of white snow and occasional skeletal remains of long-dead trees.

The ride down was quick and incredibly cold. Gloves had long been soaked and the hands long frozen. Fortunately the roads were dry and we had an incredible tailwind for a quick ride into Sisters, OR. After a most satisfying lunch and the joy of cupping my cold hands around a cup of hot coffee, Frank and I found a locally owned, non-franchise motel. Very comfortable.

And Roger? Well it got down to 30 degrees last night, so I suspect he is a happy camper.

Where's the Joy? (June 4, 2012)

On a day like today, there are visuals that catch your eye and make you want to stop and just enjoy the beauty of it all. Varying shades of greens of lush fields versus the tall stands of forest trees ... wispy white clouds floating amongst the trees. Grey river water bubbling over dark brown boulders. Quite beautiful.

On a day like today, it is also one of the most miserable of experiences ... riding all day in the rain. While there is a certain joy in the solitude, there is constant cold and dampness inside the rain jacket and pants. Cold and wet that just does not go away.

On a day like this, there is very little joy.

Four summers ago I rode through this same McKenzie River Valley ... it was a beautiful warm day. Thus, very fond memories. One of the fond memories was stopping at the Takoda's restaurant near the McKenzie River Bridge on Oregon Route 126. Well into today's ride of 54 miles I was hoping to find that restaurant around each and every bend in the road. Finally ... finally the structure came into view. As an added plus, parked in front of the familiar structure was Frank's bike. We talked of the day's events (Frank and Roger took the day off at a nearby Forest Service campground). Frank had spent a good part of the day inside this restaurant reading and keeping warm and dry.

After consuming great amounts of hot coffee and a reasonably good sandwich, I headed for the campground only to find myself in one of the heaviest downpours and strongest windstorms I have experienced on any of my past summer bike treks. Whereas I had pretty much dried out at the restaurant, I was now completely soaked, cold ... and in no mood to camp.

I am now sitting in a small way-side motel, dry and warm ... outside it is still raining and the temperature is around 40 degrees ... this is where joy is.

A Biker's Paradise (June 4, 2012)

Eugene has to be one of the bike-friendliest communities that I have visited. Many, many bike lanes (roads are almost glass-smooth!!), and there is a wonderful bike/pedestrian path that runs along the Willamette River.

On Saturday I rode in from Corvallis (46 miles) and ended the ride on the river path ... probably eight to ten miles worth ... very nice (low stress) way to finish up a ride. Have spent the last day and a half with good friend Nancy O'Brien relaxing and enjoying the usual Eugene delights. As an aside, we went to a movie yesterday ... The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel (thank you Nancy for correct name of movie) ... very, very good movie. I recommend this movie to anyone who enjoys movies that do not cater to 18 year-old boys.

Today and tomorrow do not look to be at all enjoyable ... heavy rains and cold (low 30s at night). I will be meeting up with Frank and Roger this evening at McKenzie USFS campground. Tomorrow includes riding up and over McKenzie Pass ... snow???

Sure could use some (but not all) of the Tucson heat.

Extra Miles into Corvallis (June 1, 2012)

Not a real exciting day of riding, but warmer so that's a good thing. I did manage, through my seemingly timeless ability to not pay attention, to end up with just over 68 miles, versus the usual 54 miles from Grand Ronde to Corvallis. Sad thing is that if I had just looked at my map ...

The high point of the day had to be riding on a bike path that ran parallel to Hwy 99W for about 10 miles. Most enjoyable. 'Tis a shame that there are not more of these paths as the paths greatly reduce the stress factor. Friends who have toured in Northern Europe said there are many, many such paths for cyclist. As I say, most enjoyable.

Other than that ... not much to say about the day's ride. Frank and Andrew did catch up to us at the Benton County Fairground RV Park. We had to do some talking ... the camp host wanted $21 per tent! Unjust to say the least ... we got them down to $26 for a site and then we zero lot lined our tents (think condos). Today's ride takes us to Eugene. Here's a surprise ... it is overcast!!

A word of warning to some of you who live in Arizona. A number of people (two) have indicated that they wish to "live vicariously" via this journal. I may be wrong, but I believe the Arizona State Legislature enacted, and the Governor signed, a law making "living vicariously" illegal. I seem to recall that at the time only one legislator had heard of the word "vicarious", but did not know the meaning of the word. However this Preacher was pretty sure it is was immoral (he was heard to mumble something about "What's next, bestiality?") ... anyway, you may want to check the newly enacted laws prior to "living vicariously".

(If you have ever wondered if touring cyclist have too much time and think about odd topics ... I offer up the previous paragraph.)

Anyway, it is on to Eugene.

Saying Goodbye ... (June 1, 2012)

Saying goodbye to the Pacific Ocean, and heading inland.

Yesterday's ride, while fairly uneventful, was a study in contrasting weather. As I had feared sitting in my tent yesterday morning and listening to the rain, it was a wet ride. For the first couple of hours along the coast, there was a continual light rain, along with very cool temps. Not a lot of fun. But just north of Lincoln City there is a side route that gets riders off of Hwy 101. This ride along Slab Creek is one of my favorites ... very little traffic and very enjoyable riding. Upon turning onto this side road, and heading inland the weather changed dramatically. Sunny and warmer, which gladdened my heart greatly. The remaining ride to Grand Ronde was warm and fairly easy.

Through the magic of cell phones, we determined that Frank was not going to join us in Grand Ronde, so Roger and I discussed sleeping arrangements for the coming evening ... Roger loves stealth camping and I love hotels. I trust Roger enjoyed his evening as much as I enjoyed my evening in a hotel. I may not have mentioned this before, but camping is not one of my favorite past-times. The reason I move my belongings into a self-storage for the summer is so that I can fore-go paying rent ... ergo, hotels from time-to-time are affordable.

The plan is to meet up with Roger, Frank and Andrew (a young guy Roger and I met at Nehalem State Park) in Corvallis this evening. Hope that happens.

Weather looks good today, and the roads are relatively flat. Dare I say it ... life is good.

Along Way from Portland (May 31, 2012)

Other than for 30 minutes during my ride from Lakeview, WA to Astoria, it has been a relatively dry ride. But this morning as I sit in my tent in Whalen Island County Park listening to the rain fall, I fear it will not be a dry ride today.

It feels so good to be back out on the road and putting in the mileage daily. So far my “couch training” method seems to have been sufficient. Granted the road has been fairly flat, but my body seems to be able to handle what few climbs I’ve had to get up and over.

Since last posting, I have put in four days of riding, and am now just north of Pacific City, OR. The ride from Portland to Lakeview (57 miles) was relatively uneventful … nice ride heading northwest along SR-30 with a nice gentle tailwind. The first 13 miles took me through Portland, east-to-west across town from the Airport area to St. Johns Bridge. If you are going to ride through a major urban area, there is probably no better time than a Sunday morning on a three-day weekend.

Lakeview to Astoria/Fort Stevens State Park (60 miles) was not an easy ride. I had had a conversation with a touring cyclist back in Stevenson, WA about the ride from Portland to Astoria. His comment was that there was one serious climb and then some rollers. Since the Portland-to-Lakeview (across the river from Rainier, OR) had been fairly flat, I knew I had a climb and some rollers on this leg. Just north of the bridge at Rainier there is a serious climb. Once cresting this climb, I figured the hard riding for the day was pretty much done … I was pretty much wrong. Add coldish wind and 30 minutes of rain and I was pretty much not a happy person upon my arrival to Astoria.

Astoria brightened my day. At the Safeway I had the opportunity to talk with Dee and Rog Sims. Dee and Rog are British and have been touring different parts of the world for the past two plus years. After completing my shopping, I headed for the Blue Scorcher Bakery. A friend in Tucson, Ian Johnson, had raved (yes, raved) about this wonderful bakery/restaurant that he recalled from his touring days. He was right … it was the perfect place to relax and enjoy quality food and a warm, comfortable atmosphere (think in terms of a bakery in Jerome, AZ). After achieving a high level of contentment, I headed on the Fort Stevens State Park and met up with Roger Simmons. Finally have to pull the tent, etc., out and camp … damn!

Roger and I rode down to Nehalem State Park (38 miles) along Hwy. 101, camped, then on to Whalen Island County Park (48 miles) … where I now sit listening to the rain fall on my tent. Yesterday we briefly met up with Frank Preston in Tillamook (the third member of our cross-county travel squad). I say briefly because coming out of Tillamook, Roger and I chose to take the scenic, non-climbing route … Frank opted for the scenic CLIMBING route. He was to meet us here, but unfortunately he managed to slice his finger somewhere along his route and returned to Tillamook for stitches. The plan is to meet up today.

One of the surprises of touring is what I call the “small world” event. Over the past three summers of touring, I have had several occurrences where an individual to whom I was talking turned out to know a person in my life. In Northern Utah I talked with a guy who went to high school with Sue McFadden … in the Michigan Upper Peninsula I talked with a guy who knew of my oldest brother from high school days in Scottsdale. This trip has already offered up such an event … riding south along 101, just north of Seaside, I saw a couple walking to their car from a store … thought I recognized the guy. Turns out it was Eric (last name does not come to mind), who I rode with many, many times with the Saturday morning riding group in Tempe. Very small world.

So, other than the current rain fall, it has been a delightful ride. We will be heading inland today toward Corvallis and Eugene, then on across central Oregon to Baker City (birthplace of the guy who founded the Air Stream Travel Trailer company … learned that several years ago when passing thru Baker City).

Wet day ahead.