Almost to the Atlantic (August 22)

Today's ride of 30 miles, or so, will take us to Ocean City, MD ... to the Atlantic Ocean.

Traveling via bikes since late May ... traveling through beautiful days and scenery and sometimes through rain-soaked days and "anywhere USA" urban areas.  Mostly enjoyable; sometimes tedious.

All-in-all, very enjoyable.  Which is why I choose to spend my summers traveling around the U.S. on my Surly.

It has been many a day since I last posted, and will try to catch up with the events of those days in a later post.  But for now, know that the Atlantic is but half a day away ... then it is back to Washington D.C. and a flight home on August 28.

Frank and Roger have completed their rides and are now in Maine.  McKinley and Patrice indicated they would be reaching Yorktown, VA yesterday or today, and Andrew is expecting to arrive in Washington D.C. sometime in the coming week.  So all either have or will soon be completing their individual treks.  For some it is the first complete ride across the country; others of us the second.  Doing this is not easy ... but then it is not hard either. 

For Kim, reaching the Atlantic is the culmination of several years of planning and one summer of new experiences/challenges.  Reaching the Atlantic can be, and in most cases is, a very emotional event.  Riding the last few miles is overwhelming ... but extremely joyous.

The following quote was sent to Kim yesterday by one of her law-firm partners, and accurately summarizes this summer's trek:

“Once a journey is designed, equipped, and put in process, a new factor enters and takes over. A trip, a safari, an exploration, is an entity, different from all other journeys. It has personality, temperament, individuality, uniqueness. A journey is a person in itself; no two are alike. And all plans, safeguards, policing, and coercion are fruitless.

"We find after years of struggle that we do not take a trip; a trip takes us. Tour masters, schedules, reservations, brass-bound and inevitable, dash themselves to wreckage on the personality of the trip.

"Only when this is recognized can the blown-in-the glass bum relax and go along with it. Only then do the frustrations fall away. In this a journey is like marriage. The certain way to be wrong is to think you control it.” -- John Steinbeck

One of my favorite quotes which motivates me was sent to me by Bill Burk four summers ago:

 "Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you did not do than by the ones you did do.  So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the trade winds in your sails.

Explore.  Dream.  Discover." 

-- Mark Twain

Time to head to the Atlantic (although we have been heading to the Atlantic since late May!).

 

 

Love Those Trails (August 15,2012)

Don’t necessarily love those roads …

The last four days have been “love” and “love… not so much”.  Coming out of Cleveland was a day of bike touring “love“.  Of the 68 miles of riding to Canton, OH, about 58 of the miles were on a tow path.  The path followed the original Ohio and Erie Canal that ran from Cleveland (Lake Erie) south to the Ohio River.  As is to be expected, the tow path was fairly flat, and the lush growth of the wooded areas spectacular.  This day’s ride was on a Sunday, which meant that there were a lot of cyclist and walkers on the trail … which meant there were numerous near misses, but it was refreshing to see so many people out exercising.

Day two, 65 miles from Canton to Chester, WV was one of the “love … not so much” days.  I had asked at a local Canton bike shop for suggestions for a route to Chester … “My wife and I recently rode Route 172 to Lisbon, OH, and it was really nice“ was the advice received from one of the employees.  Obviously, “my wife and I” enjoy unrelenting short climbs with little or no shoulder.  After about the 40th repeat of “slow laborious climb, followed by fast down-hill”, my joy of bike touring tends to dissipate.  This day was hard.  Combine tired physical bodies with the frustration of trying to find our way in East Liverpool … by the time we got across the bridge and into a small hotel in Chester, it had definitely become a world record “love … not so much” day.  Little did I know of what the next day held in store.

Day three consisted of 66 miles from Chester to Clairton, PA (a suburb south of Pittsburgh). Following the directions provided by Google Bicycle Map, in order to leave Chester, we took a right off of Chester Avenue onto 6th Street.  Little known fact:  Steve McQueen refused to drive his Mustang on this road because it was too steep (up, up, up!).  Knowing our limits, we decided to go over to Route 30, and head out of town on the much busier highway.  As we passed under the “Bicycles Prohibited” sign, I thought we were on a better route.  True, it was less steep, but the truck traffic was heavy, and the West Virginia Transportation Department did not think it was important to include safety/bicycle lanes.  Pretty scary stuff, even though it only lasted four or five miles.  The “Welcome to Pennsylvania” sign was indeed a welcome sight, as safety/bicycle lanes were something they included (there is, however, one county in Pennsylvania with a Transportation Engineer who thinks the best place for an 18” wide rumble strip is centered in the 3’-0” safety/bike lane). 

The ride into the Pittsburgh area went pretty well, and due to my stubbornness, we opted to ride the Montour Trail.  This rail-to-trail runs south from the northwest side of Pittsburgh, then loops around the southern edge and connects to the Great Allegheny Passage (GAP) Trail, which we intend to take into Washington D.C. Was it a wise choice versus riding through the metropolitan areas … don’t know.  Other than getting partially lost a couple of times, it went pretty well … oh, an early afternoon light rain thoroughly “wetted” us … oh, and a late afternoon downpour (deluge … think Noah) that was just ridiculous, soaked us through and through.  Out on the trail with no cover in sight, the only thing you can do is just stand in the downpour and smile (grimace?).  We eventually made it to an inexpensive motel, got cleaned up, fed and put to bed.  All in all, partially “love bike touring” and partially “(well beyond) love … not so much”.

But today proved to be back to the good side of touring.  I won’t go into the frustration of lack of directional signage in the Pittsburgh area, but please understand that the 10 miles from the motel to the GAP Trail did not go well.  However, the remaining 56 miles of rail-to-trail riding was again spectacular.  Makes you forget the bad times.

Tonight we are in the small town of Ohiopyle, PA.  This town has been a tourist/white water rafting mecca for many many years.  Very nice relaxing atmosphere after having experienced Cleveland, Canton, Chester and Pittsburgh (suburbs). 

Not may days left of riding to get to the Atlantic Ocean, but most of those days will be on either a rail-to-trail or tow path.  Good … love those trails and love bike touring.

Thinking of Frank (August 12, 2012)

As we biked through Oregon, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming and a large part of Nebraska there were two certainties.  The first was that Frank was the strongest and fastest rider in our group ... Frank would arrive in the day's finish town well in advance of the rest of us.  The second certainty was that if there was a McDonald's in that town, we would most certainly see his smiling face camped out at a table at that establishment ... air conditioning and WiFi, plus various non-nutritious items having all been enjoyed.

When leaving Cleveland this morning, Kim and I passed the magnificent structure (adjacent picture) housing the ever busy burger-peddling emporium, and my heart sank with the realization that Frank's path would not afford him the luxury of going into this luxurious Mickey Dee's. 

Frank is the main factor in my enjoyment of the travel through the states listed above.  He had taken the time to put together a town-by-town itinerary that got us all to Iowa in time to ride RAGBRAI.  He was the unifying personality in the disparate group ... he is the always smiling Frank. 

Frank ... thank you.   

Wet and Cold (August 11, 2012)

Sometimes the days seem to meld into one-another.  Sometimes the days do not inspire.  Sometimes I get lazy.  Sometimes ...

After leaving Toledo, we have traveled many a mile to reach Cleveland ... 72 miles to Avery/Milan and 64 miles to Cleveland.  Both days were somewhat similar in that there were things of interest, yet things that were seemingly unremarkable.

The highlight of the ride to Avery/Milan was once again the result of a chanced-upon conversation with a local ... Bill was installing American flags and other Viet Nam related flags on the main street of Elmore, OH in preparation for the next day's arrival of the replica of the Viet Nam Memorial Wall.  We asked him for directions to a town south of Elmore that would get us on the Adventure Cycling Northern Tier route.  He asked where we were headed ... once again, with a gentle smile and local knowledge, we were directed to a paved rail-to-trail that started  less than a block away that would save us miles and miles all the while providing a car-free ride.  We stopped in to a bike shop located next to the trail and had numerous conversations with employees and customers.  It is amazing and amusing how much joy our travels bring to others.

While standing out on the trail, another touring cyclist came from the east, and without his stopping we exchanged a quick "where from/where to".  I then heard a young lady who was standing nearby say that she had never heard such an exchange and was smiling broadly because of the exchange ... she was filled with joy.  She returned the joy in that she suggested a very nice little eating establishment in the next town.  Life is filled with these joyful occurrences while on the road ... I wonder if it is because conversations with strangers are more open, or if when living the usual day-to-day we just do not take the time to talk with strangers?

The ride into Cleveland was good for the first 5 miles (quiet road and tailwind), interesting along the shoreline road (massive homes and a tree-lined avenue) and finally, torturous getting through Cleveland.  The roads in Cleveland had no bike lanes, but had many, many pot-holes.  Made me yearn for the roads of Tucson.

We have taken two rest days here in Cleveland.  Yesterday we took a bus from the hotel, which is about 10 miles south of downtown, to the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame.  The bus ride lasted about an hour, and was an eye opener for me ... traveling through some of the more depressed areas and sharing the ride with those who live in these areas reminded me as to just what a blessed life I live.

The Hall of Fame was interesting ... lots of memories.  The high point for me was watching a movie about the Beatles which highlighted songs and comments about and from each album they put out.  As I say, lots of memories and such ... lots of gray-hairs sharing my recollections.  A good day filled with great music.

Today is a day of rest ... a day to ease into my 65th year.  A day of communicating with family and friends in celebration (or at least acknowledgment) of my birth date. Family and friends ... I am indeed blessed.

A common theme of discussions with family/friends in Arizona was the heat in Arizona ... today in Cleveland it is rainy and about 65 degrees.  Cold and wet for me as I mailed warm and rain proof clothing home several weeks ago ... cold and wet.

Life Lesson # 64 (August 7, 2012)

When out bike touring, there are many different methods in charting a course.  Some will lay out an itinerary well in advance of leaving home, some will wake on the morning of the ride and go which ever way the wind is blowing (as Benny told me of a friend of his).

The method Kim and I have chosen, in the quest to stay in the present, is to plan out the day's ride as we go.  Generally, we talk about the day's ride, and where we want to go the next day ... then we spend the evening considering routes for the following day.  Last night I studied the Michigan State Highway map along with the State Bicycling maps to put together a plan.  Guess work all the way as there is only so much one can learn from one-dimensional maps.

So anyway, after having breakfast this morning in a small cafe (heavy on the 1950's memorabilia), we headed over to an adjacent gas station to get some water and miscellaneous snacks for the day's ride.  We were individually cornered by a group of 5 truck drivers who were very interested in our biking travels.  Very good natured guys ... just road-travelers who were interested in our mode of travel.  After a lengthy and enjoyable conversation, one of them asked about our planned travel route for the day.  I told him what I had planned from my hour and a half studies from the night before.  He smiled and said if we had a map he could show us a straight and flat route.  I, being the butt-head that I am, suggested that we had heard about supposedly flat roads before.  He gently and knowingly informed me that he had spent a lifetime hauling goods over these roads and that he knew about hills.  Case closed ... we took the route he suggested ... today's ride may have been the easiest and most enjoyable 68 mile ride we have taken this summer.

Life lesson #64:  know where you want to go (what you wish to achieve), plan it out ... but be knowledgeable enough so as to recognize wise advice and flexible enough so as to adjust your plans.

So today's ride of 68 miles from Hillsdale, MI to Toledo, OH was good.  The real bonus of following the gentleman's advice was a glorious patch of sunflowers along side the roadway.  Kim has mentioned several times that sunflowers are her favorite flower ... I do not know which of us was filled with more joy ... Kim gleefully dancing around the flowers or me watching her gleefully dancing.  Joy is somewhat contagious.

It has been several days since our arrival in Milwaukee (the last posting to this journal).  After the enjoyable afternoon of experiencing downtown Milwaukee, we took the next day very easy ... a short ride to the ferry ... a quick boat ride across Lake Michigan ... and a short ride to a campground in Muskegon, MI.  Maybe a total of 12 miles of bike riding. We followed this easy day with a 54 mile ride to Grand Rapids, MI (another delightful rails-to-trail path), a 68 mile ride to Battle Creek, MI, then a 52 mile ride to Hillsdale, MI.  It has been a few days since those rides, so memory fails me as to specifics of the rides other than the beauty of Southern Michigan, which should be experienced by all.  The small towns one passes through are quite enchanting ... the architecture of the old downtown buildings enthralling.  One particular town stands out ... Homer, MI ... you will just have to see it to understand.

The day of the ride from Muskegon to Grand Rapids did have two occurrences that are easily remembered.  The first was that we met Debbie and Bob Powers for breakfast at a place in Muskegon called "Russ's".  Debbie and Bob are friends that I ride with in Tucson ... sharing time with friends is most enjoyable after being out on the road.  I can not thank them enough for taking the time to drive up to Muskegon and share breakfast with us.  The second item to remember goes like this ... after leaving the restaurant, Kim and I pedaled off toward a rail-to-trail that Bob had recommended.  After riding toward the trail for about 45 minutes, Kim stopped to check the map/GPS.  While she was doing such, I looked into my handle-bar bag and realized that my phone, my wallet (license, credit cards and $300 +/-) and coin purse (yeah, yeah ... I carry a coin purse ... so what!??) were not to be seen.  Left them back at Russ's.  Pardon my choice of words here, but ... "Oh, shit!!!!".  Called Russ's with Kim's phone ... yes, they found the items (back of my mind was screaming, "Oh thank God ... how about the $300??).  About that time, Debbie and Bob came by as we pedaled back toward the restaurant ... saviors ... gave me a quick ride to recover my items ... money was intact ... the waitress who found my things tried to refuse to accept any "thank you money", but I persisted ... 25 cents well spent, eh?

The realization that the end of the ride is near is becoming more-and-more part of our daily conversations.  We are hoping that we might be able to meet-up with McKinley and Patrice (two young ladies Kim rode with back in Oregon).  We are wondering where Andrew might be. Andrew, last we heard, was heading to Washington D.C. on the TransAm trail ... Andrew, Kim and I shared a most enjoyable evening camping along the Madison River back in Montana.  I have been following Frank and Roger's continued travels toward Maine.  It is all coming to a close ... which is both sad and joyful.  Three weeks from today and I will return to Tucson ... sad and joyful.

Which brings me back to the fact that there are life lessons to be learned ... both sad and joyful ... but in the end, life is good. 

. 

More Bike Paths (August 2, 2012)

Oh, what joy to ride and not have to deal with traffic.  Another day of primarily riding bike paths made the 23 mile flat ride from Waukesha to Milwaukee an easy ride.

When I was a kid growing up in Iowa, my favorite professional baseball team was the Milwaukee Braves ... Hank Aaron, Eddie Mathews, Warren Spahn, et al. Today we finished the ride into Milwaukee on the Hank Aaron Multi-use path ... the little boy in me rejoiced.

We decided to make a short day of riding, which allowed an afternoon of walking around downtown Milwaukee.  Kim worked her magic in booking hotel rooms, so we are in the downtown Hilton for the price of a low cost motel out on the fringes ... crazy.  Pure opulence and luxury up here on the 15th floor.  Beats the hell out of camping.

Spent the afternoon walking around downtown Milwaukee, and enjoying the architecture of buildings old and new.  The adjacent picture is the Milwaukee Art Museum building which is beautifully located on the waterfront.  I am afraid the picture does not do the structure justice ... the affect of this structure is stunning after walking through the claustrophobic grays, browns and faded whites of the downtown buildings.  Having lived my entire life in the southwest, I have not been exposed to the overwhelming beauty of stately structures built in the 1890s to 1920s.  These older structures are magnificent to observe, but limited time did not allow for the indepth study necessary to really take-in the ornate detailing presented. I spent a glorious afternoon craning my neck and taking not-so-good pictures ("Say buddy, been off the farm long?")

Tomorrow we board the Lake Express ferry for a two and a half hour trip across Lake Michigan, landing in Muskegon, MI.  Hope to see Debbie and Bob Powers on Saturday ... they live in Grand Haven during the summer and Tucson during the winter.  Bob has provided some route information for getting across Michigan to Toledo which should prove to make for good riding.

So tomorrow we go a-boating on a lake bigger than some states. Won't be long before we are to the Atlantic.

Another Wonderful Ride (August 1, 2012)

Another great ride on another great rail-to-trail path.  Today's 72 mile ride to Waukesha, WI was primarily on the Glacial Drumlin Trail, which connects Madison to the Milwaukee area.

Two days of not having to deal with traffic makes for some wonderful biking.  Tomorrow we are heading to downtown Milwaukee, so will definitely be dealing with traffic.  Friday we will be taking the ferry across Lake Michigan to Muskegon, MI, then it will be on to Cleveland.

This part of the Midwest is quite beautiful ... rolling hills covered with wooded areas and corn fields.  Lots of lakes, and the sky has been an incredible shade of blue dotted with white clouds (as opposed to dark menacing clouds).  Smiles all around.

The adjacent picture is from yesterday's ride on the Badger State Trail, and shows me entering the 1200' tunnel.

The ride continues, but the end-point is looming in the back of my mind.

A Wonderful Ride (7-31-2012)

Three days out of RAGBRAI.  No more waiting in endless lines for anything.  No more worrying about possible collisions with other cyclists.  No more high-priced everything.  RAGBRAI is fun, but it is nice to be back to fairly normal touring again.

The first two days of riding after the end of RAGBRAI were relatively short and relatively easy.  The 30 mile ride from Clinton, IA to Savanna, IL was on the Great River Trail, although I think the name of the trail should be "The Great (the river is somewhere to the west) River Trail.  Nice ride, but for the most part it was just less traveled roads, not the path-adjacent-to-the-river-providing-wonderful-views.  The second day's ride, 47 miles to Freeport, IL, was on a more heavily traveled highway.  Lots of rolling hills and less bike lanes.  We stopped for lunch in the small town of Shannon, and was told of a back road that offered better riding and less traffic to Freeport. This route made for a much more enjoyable ride.  I was thinking it would be wonderful if there were a website listing secondary roads that are appropriate for touring ... maybe I will try to develop such a site ... probably not.

We are learning the value of asking locals for riding advice.  This morning, while leaving Freeport and searching for the Jane Addams Trail, Kim talked to a gentleman by the name of Tiger.  Tiger owns a bike shop, and races recumbent bikes (he showed us pictures he carries in his wallet of his racing days of 20 to 30 years ago).  Tiger led us out to the trail, which made for a much easier start of the ride.  The Jane Addams Trail is a 13 mile long rail-to-trail path that connects with the Badger State Trail (rail-to-trail leading to Madison, WI).  So today's 74 mile ride to, and through, Madison was primarily on a traffic-free path.  A wonderful ride indeed.

Included on the Badger State Trail is a 1200' tunnel, which is pitch-black for most of the length of the tunnel.  As we were entering, two touring cyclists were coming out of the tunnel.  We had a nice chat with the couple, and shared some information, etc.  Always nice to talk with other touring cyclist.

The crushed rock trail gave way to a nicely paved trail about 8 miles out of Madison.  This trail led directly into the heart of Madison, and was a joy to ride.  I have not seen so many cyclists using a trail in all of my travels.  It is so nice to have a dedicated trail, rather than having to share a road with cars and trucks.  After leaving the trail, we rode east on a major road ... but the bike lane was about 10' wide, so very low stress factor.

I recognize that Tucson is making great gains in improving bike travel infrastructure, but this town is tops in my book.  I also read in USA Today that Madison is one of the top places for "seniors/retirees" to live.  Bet it gets cold, tho ...

Tomorrow we head to Milwaukee on another rail-to-trail.  Should be another wonderful ride.