What happened to the beauty? What happened to the green and the blue and the softness? What happened?
Central and Eastern Wyoming … that’s what happened. The change in flora is equaled by the change in geology. Where once there were brilliant hues of green, there are now drab shades of brown and gray. Where once there were rolling hills backed with towering snow covered mountains, there now are vast expanses of treeless flat lands and wind ravaged spires. Where once there were skies of soft blues and whites, there are now smoke filled gray/tan hazes. Where once there was enjoyment of riding through visual delights, there now are workman-like days.
Two mornings ago we broke camp at Hatchet USFS campground and immediately started the climb to Towgatee Pass (9658’). The climb, while not overly difficult was continuous. Unique to this particular climb, as compared with the many other climbs we have performed over the past month, was the ride in the back of a pickup truck. There is a 3 mile stretch that is under construction (read dirt, mud and heavy construction equipment). The ride in the truck was not optional unless we wanted to wait until the end of the construction day. Not an option desired. To say that it was interesting riding on the side rail of the pickup while bracing the bikes is an understatement … but having 3 miles deducted from the long climb was not at all disagreeable to me.
This climb and descent was quite beautiful and all-in-all very enjoyable. This day’s ride of 48 miles ended in Debois (pronounced Dew-boyz), WY at a KOA Kampground (how klever). About 10 miles out from Debois I looked around and thought that I had been through some sort of time/location warp … I thought I was suddenly on I-40, about 60 miles west of Albuquerque. Suddenly I was in a desert setting and the hills were multi-colored in striations. Quite stunning but also quite barren. Debois sits along side the Wind River, and the geological formations in this area are know as Wind River formations. As is usual, the kamping conditions at the KOA were krowded and generally pretty krappy.
The first 10 or 15 miles on today’s 78 mile ride to Riverton followed the Wind River through some exceptionally stunning geological formations. This area has been subject to wind erosion which has exposed many shades of red, brown, tan and rust … imagine Sedona on a lesser scale (and no traffic circles). The remainder of the ride could pretty much be referred to as “hard work”. Temperatures were in the mid 90s, and the skies were filled with smoke from some local Wyoming fires. There is very little of anything out here. One of the towns listed on the map, Morton, consists of about 300’ of highway frontage. I think in the 78 miles traveled today there were only two gas stations/stores in which we could replenish our water supply and boost our spirits.
And based on conversations with touring cyclist who traveled the roads we will be on the next two days, there is even less for us to enjoy in the very near future.
Two evenings from tonight we will be in Casper for a day of rest … July 4. After that we will be heading up to South Dakota to see the Crazy Horse and Mount Rushmore mountain sculptures.
July 4th already … summer is going quickly … if only this part of Wyoming would disappear as quickly.
Yep...nothin' for miles
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