Good Sign (July 10, 2012)

Sometimes, while out riding, one detects a good sign.  The adjacent sign is definitely goooooood.

When preparing to leave Keystone for our ride to Hot Springs, we had planned on taking the scenic route, however we met a local bike rider who advised us that the scenic route is very hilly and very dangerous ... she had been hit on this road.  She was very convincing, so we took the route she suggested ... 62 miles along SD 79, which is a divided highway.  Very tough ride due to lack of services and, as usual, a consistent headwind. 'Tis a shame, Frank and Roger both rode the scenic route and said is was wonderful.

But the one thing they missed was the goooood sign ... 15% downhill.  I am not sure I have ever descended such a steep road.  Scenic route be damned, that short section was incredible.  Unfortunately, the remainder of the ride made that forgetable by the end of the day.

Long ride, painful ... but woo-boy 15%.

Looking Presidential (July 9, 2012)

Being the butt-head that I am ... while we were at Mount Rushmore, a group of 50 (or so) bicyclist arrived.  They were on a supported tour, and were putting in some serious miles ... while there, one of them, Bob Hauck, was taking pictures of his co-riders.  Again, being the butt-head that I am, as a joke, I posed  in the spot that others had posed.  Bob was gracious enough to take a few pictures and e-mailed them to me ... thank you Bob.

Sometimes being a butt-head pays off in a positive way.  Not always ... but sometimes.

Artwork Extraordinaire (July 9, 2012

Three days from Douglas, WY to Mount Rushmore, SD ... three days as different as can be imagined.

Day one out of Douglas, was a long day ... over 70 miles.  the scenery was as we have become accustomed ... barren and brown, but the winds were kind to us for the initial 47 miles.  The nastiness of nature (head wind) hit us as we made a right-hand turn and headed toward South Dakota.  Nasty, nasty, nasty!!  We were all pretty well wasted upon arriving in Edgemont, SD.  Edgemont is a lot like many small towns in this area ... small.  There had been a serious forest fire in the area, and the annual Redneck Rally was being held, so all of the in-town motel rooms were full, and most of the camp sites were also full.  Kim did hear of some rooms 6 miles out of town, to which she and I quickly agreed to take after looking at the proximity of the camping area to the railroad tracks.

The owners of the Sunrise Ranch Lodge came into town and hauled us and our bikes back out to the ranch.  Wonderful accommodations and wonderful hosts.  It was so quite, and so beautiful (sunsets and sunrises) that it was extremely good for our tired souls (not to speak of the tired butts).  This is one evening that won't be forgotten for some time.

The next morning, after being hauled back into town, we headed toward a campsite north of Custer, SD.  The early miles of the 55-mile day were on the main highway ... which was okay except for the long, slow climbs.  There is a rail-to-trail path running from Edgemont that passes by the chosen campsite for the evening.  Having grown tired of the continuous climbing, we decided to ride the path (the George Mickelson Trail).  Turns out it was a most enjoyable ride in-as-much-as most rail lines never exceed 4% slope.  Add in the fact that the scenery is stunning ... and for the most part quiet.  Included in the events of the day was a stop at the Crazy Horse Memorial mountain sculpture.  The scale and scope of the work being done is immense, and the affect of the entire experience (on me) can not be conveyed in these words.  As magnificent as the primary sculpture is, the story of  Korczak Ziolkowski and his wife Ruth is even more magnificent.  I won't attempt to tell of their life stories ... one picture of them joyfully dancing in their living room captures the joyous love and vitality they shared.  If only we could all capture that spark.

For information about the Crazy Horse Memorial, go to:  http://crazyhorsememorial.org/

Anyway, back to the riding ... we finished up at the USFS campsite and joined Frank to celebrate his 55th birthday.  Frank had a can of mixed vegetables, Kim threw in a can of Campbell's Vegetable Soup, and I had two packets of pre-cooked rice ... throw in sliced apples, some water, and you have a gourmet meal.  Kim and I had planned on treating Frank to a birthday lunch, but he is back on his form and finished his riding day about 4 hours earlier then we.

So we stretched the birthday celebration into the early part of today.  After re-packing the bikes, we headed toward Hill City to find a high-quality breakfast cafe ... but when we saw a sign indicating that for $2.50, you could eat all the pancakes you could handle, we quickly forgot quality for cheapness. The food was  passable, and the side dishes very expensive, but we enjoyed a delightful birthday breakfast bash none-the-less.

The remainder of the day, for Kim and I, consisted of a 17 mile ride up to Mount Rushmore and down to Keystone, SD.  Frank stopped off at the local KOA for a visit with Muntasir and Mohammed, and I think, after visiting Mount Rushmore, rode to Hot Springs.  We intend to catch up to Frank and Roger in a few days in northwest Nebraska.

Our visit to Mount Rushmore was interesting, but did not have the impact of yesterday's visit to Crazy Horse.  The entire facility is very impressive, but just does not have the magical feeling and sense of awe that I experienced yesterday.  Plus, as the adjacent picture shows, only George Washington was working today ... the other three had the day off ... something about budget cuts.

So, the ride continues tomorrow, heading to northwest Nebraska. Go east, old man, go east. 

The Good and the Bad (July 6, 2012)

Actually, the order should be the bad and the good.  Sometimes, for no apparent reason, you just do not have a good day.

After a nice rest day in Casper, we all headed to Douglas, WY … a 50 mile ride.  The day did not start well as we rode in the rain for the first 45 minutes or so.  While there was a nice bike path getting us out of Casper, the next several miles did not offer much in the way of safe bike lanes.  Once past the outlaying industrial areas (Halliburton, everywhere … it should be mentioned that there is sizable oil/gas exploration going on in these parts), we enjoyed a relatively nice ride into Glenrock.  Google maps indicated that the route to take after Glenrock was on a county road called Tank Farm Road.  While we were stopped at a store, I received a text from Frank suggesting that we consider taking Interstate 25 … seems the county road is dirt for most of the 20 miles of this road.  We opted for the Interstate.

Interstates, while noisy, are very safe to ride on as there is a 12’+ safety lane.  This particular section of I-25 consisted of long rolling hills, which translates (in my mind) to long slow climbs.  This is where the bad comes in … for whatever reason, I did not have the usual leg strength to “motor” up the climbs.  When this happens, you just need to grit your teeth, shift to an easy gear, and gut it out.  Did I mention the ever present headwind? I received a lesson in “diminishing perspective” from Kim.  Seemed every time I crested a rise, she and her bike were smaller until she was but a dot on the road far ahead.  I was cooked, and very glad to reach the KOA in Douglas.  Not a good day … but that happens from time-to-time.

Now the good.  The next morning Kim, Frank and I met for breakfast in Douglas.  Upon leaving the restaurant we spoke with a local you advised us that the old highway runs parallel with I-25 (which we thought we would need to be on).  This 10 mile section of the day’s 60 mile ride was definitely the best riding we had experienced for a week or two … no traffic, nice tailwind and downhill.  Much smiling and gleefulness.  The remainder of the ride into Lusk proved also to be a good ride.

The previous evening Frank had slipped on a wet floor and landed on his hip.  Because of the soreness, he rode with Kim and I (usually he is well out in front due to him being a very, very, very strong rider).  At times there were headwinds, so the three of us rode so as to take advantage of drafting.  Frank stayed at the back and Kim and I took turns at the front.  As I say, this day was good. 

The best of this good day happened in the town of Lost Springs.  We stopped into the general store/post office/antique store for a cold drink.  The town sign coming into town indicated that the population of Lost Springs is 4.  While milling around downtown (which is also uptown), Kim became involved in a discussion with a lady who had just picked up her mail.  There are many, many moments of road magic when touring, but this proved to be a golden magic moment.

Aida (spelling??) Wright is 92 years old.  She has lived in (actually a mile outside of) Lost Springs for about 70 years.  The conversation was most entertaining, and she was a delight.  Frank asked her how long a previous town had been abandoned … she responded by remembering when the last resident of that town died.  We asked her about the residents of Lost Springs … she responded by saying one guy lives here (the store), another guy lives in a trailer next to the park, and the third guy lives at the bar.  She said their names, but I do not remember the names.  The way she said “lives at the bar” I was not sure if she was referring to his living location or his drinking habits.

She was greatly interested and enthused that Kim was riding across country.  As we were leaving, we invited her to get on her bike and come with us … she responded by saying that she had never ridden a bike because when she was a girl, “girls did not ride bikes” … and besides, she did not have any brothers.  Grand lady, she.

The remaining miles into Lusk were very good, with the exception being that I suffered my first “soft tire” of this trek.  Just over 2000 miles before the first tube change … not bad.

We got into town early, opted for an inexpensive motel, and did some basic bike maintenance.

All-in-all, a very good day.  Heading into South Dakota tomorrow.  Good riddance Wyoming.

Travel Mates (July 4, 2012)

A big part of the magic of bike touring is the amazing people you meet along the way.  Early on we met a young guy by the name of Andrew.  Andrew rode with us off and on from the Oregon coast to Grand Village, WY ... he is now headed to Colorado on the TransAm route with Washington D.C. as his finish point.  Andrew is a multi-talented artist, designer and interesting conversationalist.  Recently we rode for a few days with a very experienced touring cyclist from the Neatherlands ... Kees.  Kees is now headed to Denver.

Back in Jackson Hot Springs, we camped along side the two young guys in the adjacent picture ... Mohammed (on the left) and Muntasir.  They, along with Kim, are now a part of our traveling troup.

Mohammed and Muntasir (due to we English speakers' difficulty in pronouncing his name correctly, he has allowed us to call him "M") are from Bangladesh, and are riding across country monitoring the amount and types of trash along the roadside.  I would try to explain it all, but better you should visit their website: http://www.trashmaniac.com.  They are also heading to Washington D.C.

In my previous posting regarding the ride from Riverton to Hiland, I mentioned the "town" of  Moneta ... the town with the huge Confederate flag.  As Mohammed approached the fenced area with a request for water,  Kim, Roger and I were joking about the flag ... M asked the significance of the flag.  After we explained about the probable "white supremacist" residents, M commented that Mohammed rather looked like a Mexican. 

Both Mohammed and M are very gentle souls, and a joy with whom to share this adventure.  They ride (and often push) their Bike Friday tandem ... loaded down with somewhere around 140 pounds of gear.

The magic of the road continues.

Plenty of None-Thing-Ness (July 4, 2012)

They say a picture is worth a thousand words ... out here in Central and Eastern Wyoming this picture is worth about a million acres.

The initial 22 miles of the 64 mile ride from  Riverton to Hiland, WY was pretty nice ... smooth roads and no wind with which to be concerned.  What was of concern was that after this 22 miles into Shoshoni there were reports of no services (water, food, camping sites) for the approximately 100 miles to Casper.  That and a headwind!  After leaving Shoshoni loaded down with extra water and severe doubts about a campsite for the coming evening, Kim and I headed out.  We shortly met up with Roger, and the three of us endured what can only be said as a testing and miserable ride to Hiland.  The wind never did decide on a direction, so at one moment you have a headwind, the next a side wind, the next a tailwind.

As the accompanying picture shows, there are no trees to provide shade.  At one point we approached the town (as shown on the Wyoming road map) of Moneta ... glory be, trees and structures ... hopes of a place to sit in the shade and refuel.  The town of Moneta consisted of a fenced area (said tree was in the fenced area), a nasty sounding dog, and one of the largest Confederate flags I have ever seen.  We decided to move on.

Later in the day the skies clouded up, and distant rain storms were visible.  Suddenly a very strong and unexpected wind from the right hit us ... it was so quick that it blew both Kim and I out to the center yellow line ... fortunately there were no trucks coming from behind at that moment.  As I struggled to get my self and bike back over to the bike lane, I saw Kim fighting a similar battle ... her bike was at about a 45 degree angle to the road, and she was also struggling to get out of the road.  Up the road Roger was off in a ditch.  Then it started to rain.  Not hard, but rain none-the-less.  Just one more unique experience of riding the white line.

The day seemed to go on for ever.  We had received word earlier that there might be a convenience store open somewhere along this desolate road, and finally after cresting a small hill, I espied what looked like a store.  Roger and Kim were about a half mile ahead, and my heart sank as they seemed to be riding past the structures ... but (with great glee) I saw them turn into the parking lot.  Glory be!!!!

Turns out this store/town (Hiland, WY) consists of said store along with a bar, small eating establishment, an abandoned house (which became a campground for the night) and a totally unexpected motel.  This operation was run by a lady by the name of Mary ... she did it all, and with great graciousness (although there were a few mentions of Stephen King(ish) elements to the area).  Kim asked to take a look at the motel room, which turned out to be very nice ...  at $50 per night, she did not hesitate.  Kim was her typical generous self ... use of her shower/bathroom was extended to we campers.  Pure luxury after a very difficult day.

Yesterday's 60 mile ride into Casper, while not overly difficult, was tiring due to the previous two days' hard rides.  100 degrees and a little windy.  Did I mention desolate?  Today is a rest day ... Kim and I once again opted for hotel rooms and the others are at an RV park.  Comfortable is good.

Tomorrow we head toward southwestern South Dakota to make visits to Chief Crazy Horse and Mount Rushmore.  I will say one positive thing about this area of Wyoming ... it makes you yearn for South Dakota.

My travel plans have changed.  Rather than finishing up in Maine, I will be heading to Washington D.C.  Time constraints, due to my son's wedding in San Diego on Sept. 15, prompted the change, and the change feels good.  Getting back to Tucson in late August (as opposed to early Sept) will allow me to get re-settled into my housing, and get prepared for the gala events in San Diego.  Less hectic.

So today is a day of rest.  Was thinking about going to the local fireworks display, but since the sun sets around 10:00 PM, and I typically can't get past 9:30 ...

Aaaahhh, sweet rest.

What Happened??? (July 1, 2012)

What happened to the beauty?  What happened to the green and the blue and the softness? What happened?

Central and Eastern Wyoming … that’s what happened.  The change in flora is equaled by the change in geology.  Where once there were brilliant hues of green, there are now drab shades of brown and gray.  Where once there were rolling hills backed with towering snow covered mountains, there now are vast expanses of treeless flat lands and wind ravaged spires.  Where once there were skies of soft blues and whites, there are now smoke filled gray/tan hazes.  Where once there was enjoyment of riding through visual delights, there now are workman-like days.

Two mornings ago we broke camp at Hatchet USFS campground and immediately started the climb to Towgatee Pass (9658’).  The climb, while not overly difficult was continuous.  Unique to this particular climb, as compared with the many other climbs we have performed over the past month, was the ride in the back of a pickup truck.  There is a 3 mile stretch that is under construction (read dirt, mud and heavy construction equipment).  The ride in the truck was not optional unless we wanted to wait until the end of the construction day.  Not an option desired.  To say that it was interesting riding on the side rail of the pickup while bracing the bikes is an understatement … but having 3 miles deducted from the long climb was not at all disagreeable to me.

This climb and descent was quite beautiful and all-in-all very enjoyable.  This day’s ride of  48 miles ended in Debois (pronounced Dew-boyz), WY at a KOA Kampground (how klever).  About 10 miles out from Debois I looked around and thought that I had been through some sort of time/location warp … I thought I was suddenly on I-40, about 60 miles west of Albuquerque. Suddenly I was in a desert setting and the hills were multi-colored in striations. Quite stunning but also quite barren.  Debois sits along side the Wind River, and the geological formations in this area are know as Wind River formations.  As is usual, the kamping conditions at the KOA were krowded and generally pretty krappy.

The first 10 or 15 miles on today’s 78 mile ride to Riverton followed the Wind River through some exceptionally stunning geological formations.  This area has been subject to wind erosion which has exposed many shades of red, brown, tan and rust … imagine Sedona on a lesser scale (and no traffic circles).  The remainder of the ride could pretty much be referred to as “hard work”.  Temperatures were in the mid 90s, and the skies were filled with smoke from some local Wyoming fires.  There is very little of anything out here.  One of the towns listed on the map, Morton, consists of about 300’ of highway frontage.  I think in the 78 miles traveled today there were only two gas stations/stores in which we could replenish our water supply and boost our spirits. 

And based on conversations with touring cyclist who traveled the roads we will be on the next two days, there is even less for us to enjoy in the very near future. 

Two evenings from tonight we will be in Casper for a day of rest … July 4.  After that we will be heading up to South Dakota to see the Crazy Horse and Mount Rushmore mountain sculptures.

July 4th already … summer is going quickly … if only this part of Wyoming would disappear as quickly.