Summer Time? (June 9, 2012)

Oregon … June … supposed to be summer. This sure ain’t summer by my way of thinking.

It is around 8:00 A.M. June 9 … 39 degrees and a slight breeze (wind chill?) from the west. Sitting in my tent (walls have zero insulation value) … damn cold. It is supposed to be warmer later this morning, so planning to wait out the cold before heading out on the road.

The last three days have followed a general theme … ride in mostly rainy weather, then camp in cold and wet surroundings. The first day out of Sisters took us to a very nice county campground east of Prineville.. This 45 mile day was partly a nice day as there were few wet miles, but it was the first day of riding in shorts and shirt sleeves in quite some time. The rains did come that evening. The following morning found Roger, Andrew and I “lounging” in the bathroom. Lest you think we were lurking, allow me to explain. It was cold and wet (per usual) outside, but the spacious bathroom was heated and had a wall-mounted hand drier. While Andrew dried clothes at the wall-mounted hand drier, while I read, and while Roger ate breakfast, we all enjoyed the warmth. Fortunately there were very few people at the campsite, so no one ventured in to use the facilities while we were there.

The next day’s ride (42 miles) brought us to the lovely urban center of Mitchell. The camping in the City Park is free, so one cannot complain about the facilities. That day’s ride took us up on to the Ochoco prairie area. Stunning views … if only the sun had been shining. Once again, rain and cold. The (only) bright spot in Mitchell is a two-booth, eight-stool café on the west edge of town … understand that this urban metropolis area is maybe two blocks long.

Inside the white building, with blue trim at windows, is the nicest owner/waitress/cook one could ever have the good fortune to meet. Four summers ago when I came through Mitchell on my first bike tour, I stopped in there for breakfast. After ordering oatmeal, she asked if I was in a hurry. She then said she did not have oatmeal, but could send her granddaughter up to her home to get the oatmeal. The food is simple, good and the charm of the lady (Sharron, I think) is immense.

Yesterday, our ride of 64 miles was very interesting. Directly out of Mitchell is a seven mile, 1300’ climb. Leaving Mitchell under blue skies, I was wearing shorts and a long sleeve jersey. About four miles up, a cold front brought chilly weather, rain and sleet. At least it also brought a tailwind, so there was an iota of “silver-lining”. Upon reaching the summit, we enjoyed a delightfully long downhill taking us into Dayville. Between the summit and Dayville was some of the most incredible scenery imaginable. This is the stretch of road that includes one of those joyful oddities of the road … a dead tree covered with shoes. There are shoes of every size and style, draped over the dead limbs. I would include a picture, but I do not think Roger would appreciate showing him up in the tree trying on shoes. The last twenty miles into the State Campground east of Mount Vernon was a delight … warm enough for shorts … strong tailwind. Pure joy!

But there is no joy in awaking to 39 degree weather

Up and Over (June 6)

Oh my, such elements in early June! For my Arizona friends, I can only say that the combined temperatures of AZ and this part of Oregon probably did not top 160 degrees.

Yesterday we rode from the McKenzie Bridge area, up over McKenzie Pass, and down to Sisters, OR. Frank and I followed Roger by about a half an hour ... slogging along at a mere 3 to 4 MPH for the majority of the 22 mile climb. At the base of the climb we were doing the old "take the rain jacket off/put it back on" dance. Light drizzle, just enough to require the rain jacket and helmet cover ... then warm and sunny (kind of) requiring removal of same. As we passed the 3000' elevation the rain turned to snow flurries. Near the 11 mile marker, we came upon Andrew who had camped up here the previous night ... it was noon-time and he was just finishing breaking camp ... the boy is not an early riser.

The remaining 11 miles was very interesting, or "extreme" as Roger so eloquently summarized this part of the climb. To properly understand the importance of Roger's comment, please understand that this man has been riding for more than 30 years (I think), and regularly puts in 20,000 +/- miles per year. This is a man who relishes the idea of camping in 30 degree weather. This is not a sane man. When he stated that there were times on the latter parts of the climb that made him nervous (which I also felt), it puts importance on the word "extreme". For a good section of the upper area we rode through two-to-three inches of accumulated snow on the road ... with serious drop-offs from the edge of the pavement.

At the top of the climb we rode through lava fields ... quite surreal. Black rock, as far as the eye could see. Black rock with splotches of white snow and occasional skeletal remains of long-dead trees.

The ride down was quick and incredibly cold. Gloves had long been soaked and the hands long frozen. Fortunately the roads were dry and we had an incredible tailwind for a quick ride into Sisters, OR. After a most satisfying lunch and the joy of cupping my cold hands around a cup of hot coffee, Frank and I found a locally owned, non-franchise motel. Very comfortable.

And Roger? Well it got down to 30 degrees last night, so I suspect he is a happy camper.

Where's the Joy? (June 4, 2012)

On a day like today, there are visuals that catch your eye and make you want to stop and just enjoy the beauty of it all. Varying shades of greens of lush fields versus the tall stands of forest trees ... wispy white clouds floating amongst the trees. Grey river water bubbling over dark brown boulders. Quite beautiful.

On a day like today, it is also one of the most miserable of experiences ... riding all day in the rain. While there is a certain joy in the solitude, there is constant cold and dampness inside the rain jacket and pants. Cold and wet that just does not go away.

On a day like this, there is very little joy.

Four summers ago I rode through this same McKenzie River Valley ... it was a beautiful warm day. Thus, very fond memories. One of the fond memories was stopping at the Takoda's restaurant near the McKenzie River Bridge on Oregon Route 126. Well into today's ride of 54 miles I was hoping to find that restaurant around each and every bend in the road. Finally ... finally the structure came into view. As an added plus, parked in front of the familiar structure was Frank's bike. We talked of the day's events (Frank and Roger took the day off at a nearby Forest Service campground). Frank had spent a good part of the day inside this restaurant reading and keeping warm and dry.

After consuming great amounts of hot coffee and a reasonably good sandwich, I headed for the campground only to find myself in one of the heaviest downpours and strongest windstorms I have experienced on any of my past summer bike treks. Whereas I had pretty much dried out at the restaurant, I was now completely soaked, cold ... and in no mood to camp.

I am now sitting in a small way-side motel, dry and warm ... outside it is still raining and the temperature is around 40 degrees ... this is where joy is.

A Biker's Paradise (June 4, 2012)

Eugene has to be one of the bike-friendliest communities that I have visited. Many, many bike lanes (roads are almost glass-smooth!!), and there is a wonderful bike/pedestrian path that runs along the Willamette River.

On Saturday I rode in from Corvallis (46 miles) and ended the ride on the river path ... probably eight to ten miles worth ... very nice (low stress) way to finish up a ride. Have spent the last day and a half with good friend Nancy O'Brien relaxing and enjoying the usual Eugene delights. As an aside, we went to a movie yesterday ... The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel (thank you Nancy for correct name of movie) ... very, very good movie. I recommend this movie to anyone who enjoys movies that do not cater to 18 year-old boys.

Today and tomorrow do not look to be at all enjoyable ... heavy rains and cold (low 30s at night). I will be meeting up with Frank and Roger this evening at McKenzie USFS campground. Tomorrow includes riding up and over McKenzie Pass ... snow???

Sure could use some (but not all) of the Tucson heat.

Extra Miles into Corvallis (June 1, 2012)

Not a real exciting day of riding, but warmer so that's a good thing. I did manage, through my seemingly timeless ability to not pay attention, to end up with just over 68 miles, versus the usual 54 miles from Grand Ronde to Corvallis. Sad thing is that if I had just looked at my map ...

The high point of the day had to be riding on a bike path that ran parallel to Hwy 99W for about 10 miles. Most enjoyable. 'Tis a shame that there are not more of these paths as the paths greatly reduce the stress factor. Friends who have toured in Northern Europe said there are many, many such paths for cyclist. As I say, most enjoyable.

Other than that ... not much to say about the day's ride. Frank and Andrew did catch up to us at the Benton County Fairground RV Park. We had to do some talking ... the camp host wanted $21 per tent! Unjust to say the least ... we got them down to $26 for a site and then we zero lot lined our tents (think condos). Today's ride takes us to Eugene. Here's a surprise ... it is overcast!!

A word of warning to some of you who live in Arizona. A number of people (two) have indicated that they wish to "live vicariously" via this journal. I may be wrong, but I believe the Arizona State Legislature enacted, and the Governor signed, a law making "living vicariously" illegal. I seem to recall that at the time only one legislator had heard of the word "vicarious", but did not know the meaning of the word. However this Preacher was pretty sure it is was immoral (he was heard to mumble something about "What's next, bestiality?") ... anyway, you may want to check the newly enacted laws prior to "living vicariously".

(If you have ever wondered if touring cyclist have too much time and think about odd topics ... I offer up the previous paragraph.)

Anyway, it is on to Eugene.

Saying Goodbye ... (June 1, 2012)

Saying goodbye to the Pacific Ocean, and heading inland.

Yesterday's ride, while fairly uneventful, was a study in contrasting weather. As I had feared sitting in my tent yesterday morning and listening to the rain, it was a wet ride. For the first couple of hours along the coast, there was a continual light rain, along with very cool temps. Not a lot of fun. But just north of Lincoln City there is a side route that gets riders off of Hwy 101. This ride along Slab Creek is one of my favorites ... very little traffic and very enjoyable riding. Upon turning onto this side road, and heading inland the weather changed dramatically. Sunny and warmer, which gladdened my heart greatly. The remaining ride to Grand Ronde was warm and fairly easy.

Through the magic of cell phones, we determined that Frank was not going to join us in Grand Ronde, so Roger and I discussed sleeping arrangements for the coming evening ... Roger loves stealth camping and I love hotels. I trust Roger enjoyed his evening as much as I enjoyed my evening in a hotel. I may not have mentioned this before, but camping is not one of my favorite past-times. The reason I move my belongings into a self-storage for the summer is so that I can fore-go paying rent ... ergo, hotels from time-to-time are affordable.

The plan is to meet up with Roger, Frank and Andrew (a young guy Roger and I met at Nehalem State Park) in Corvallis this evening. Hope that happens.

Weather looks good today, and the roads are relatively flat. Dare I say it ... life is good.

Along Way from Portland (May 31, 2012)

Other than for 30 minutes during my ride from Lakeview, WA to Astoria, it has been a relatively dry ride. But this morning as I sit in my tent in Whalen Island County Park listening to the rain fall, I fear it will not be a dry ride today.

It feels so good to be back out on the road and putting in the mileage daily. So far my “couch training” method seems to have been sufficient. Granted the road has been fairly flat, but my body seems to be able to handle what few climbs I’ve had to get up and over.

Since last posting, I have put in four days of riding, and am now just north of Pacific City, OR. The ride from Portland to Lakeview (57 miles) was relatively uneventful … nice ride heading northwest along SR-30 with a nice gentle tailwind. The first 13 miles took me through Portland, east-to-west across town from the Airport area to St. Johns Bridge. If you are going to ride through a major urban area, there is probably no better time than a Sunday morning on a three-day weekend.

Lakeview to Astoria/Fort Stevens State Park (60 miles) was not an easy ride. I had had a conversation with a touring cyclist back in Stevenson, WA about the ride from Portland to Astoria. His comment was that there was one serious climb and then some rollers. Since the Portland-to-Lakeview (across the river from Rainier, OR) had been fairly flat, I knew I had a climb and some rollers on this leg. Just north of the bridge at Rainier there is a serious climb. Once cresting this climb, I figured the hard riding for the day was pretty much done … I was pretty much wrong. Add coldish wind and 30 minutes of rain and I was pretty much not a happy person upon my arrival to Astoria.

Astoria brightened my day. At the Safeway I had the opportunity to talk with Dee and Rog Sims. Dee and Rog are British and have been touring different parts of the world for the past two plus years. After completing my shopping, I headed for the Blue Scorcher Bakery. A friend in Tucson, Ian Johnson, had raved (yes, raved) about this wonderful bakery/restaurant that he recalled from his touring days. He was right … it was the perfect place to relax and enjoy quality food and a warm, comfortable atmosphere (think in terms of a bakery in Jerome, AZ). After achieving a high level of contentment, I headed on the Fort Stevens State Park and met up with Roger Simmons. Finally have to pull the tent, etc., out and camp … damn!

Roger and I rode down to Nehalem State Park (38 miles) along Hwy. 101, camped, then on to Whalen Island County Park (48 miles) … where I now sit listening to the rain fall on my tent. Yesterday we briefly met up with Frank Preston in Tillamook (the third member of our cross-county travel squad). I say briefly because coming out of Tillamook, Roger and I chose to take the scenic, non-climbing route … Frank opted for the scenic CLIMBING route. He was to meet us here, but unfortunately he managed to slice his finger somewhere along his route and returned to Tillamook for stitches. The plan is to meet up today.

One of the surprises of touring is what I call the “small world” event. Over the past three summers of touring, I have had several occurrences where an individual to whom I was talking turned out to know a person in my life. In Northern Utah I talked with a guy who went to high school with Sue McFadden … in the Michigan Upper Peninsula I talked with a guy who knew of my oldest brother from high school days in Scottsdale. This trip has already offered up such an event … riding south along 101, just north of Seaside, I saw a couple walking to their car from a store … thought I recognized the guy. Turns out it was Eric (last name does not come to mind), who I rode with many, many times with the Saturday morning riding group in Tempe. Very small world.

So, other than the current rain fall, it has been a delightful ride. We will be heading inland today toward Corvallis and Eugene, then on across central Oregon to Baker City (birthplace of the guy who founded the Air Stream Travel Trailer company … learned that several years ago when passing thru Baker City).

Wet day ahead.